Tekonologi Menjahit

Menganalisis Kampuh Pada

Suatu Produk
Sinta Agustiani 1515620002

Pendidikan Tata Busana_Universitas Negeri Jakarta

 Tekonologi Menjahit

TUJUAN PEMBELAJARAN

1. Siswa mampu menyebutkan pengertian kampuh

2. Siswa mampu menganalisis fungsi kampuh

3. Siswa mampu Mengidentifikasi macam-macam kampuh

4. Siswa mampu mengklasifikasikan alat dan bahan

membuat kampuh

5. Siswa mampu menjelaskan cara membuat kampuh

 Tekonologi Menjahit

APA ITU
KAMPUH ?
 Tekonologi Menjahit

Pengertian Kampuh
Kampuh adalah Jarak antara garis pola/jahitan dan tepi
potongan kain

Lebar kampuh disesuaikan dengan kebutuhan.

Standar lebar kampuh 1.5 cm
Cukup Menyediakan kelebihan bahan antara garis jahitan dan tepi
potongan kain untuk memastikan bahwa aman ketika memegang
potongan-potongan kain yang akan digabung bersama dengan
menggunakan mesin jahit.
 Tekonologi Menjahit

Fungsi Kampuh
Fungsi kampuh yaitu berguna untuk menyatukan dua helai atau lebih kain.
Pemakaian kampuh disesuaikan dengan kegunaan yang lebih tepat.

Keberadaan kampuh dapat membantu untuk membesarkan pakaian apabila

dikemudian hari dirasa sempit. Untuk Bagian tertentu seperti saku, lebar
kampuh kurang dari 1.3 cm atau 6 mm.
 Tekonologi Menjahit
MACAM-MACAM
KAMPUH

KAMPUH KAMPUH
BUKA BALIK

KAMPUH KAMPUH KAMPUH

PRANCIS SARUNG PIPIH
 Alat & Bahan
Alat yang di perlukan :
Membuat
• Mesin Jahit
Kampuh
• Gunting
• Kapur Jahit / Rader & Karbon
• Pita Ukur

Bahan yang di perlukan :

• Kain Motif ( Bagian Baik & Buruk nya terlihat beda)
• Benang
 Cara Membuat Kampuh
Untuk membuat kampuh, kita harus memahami bagian baik dan buruk kain serta garis pola.

Kampuh Buka (Bagian Baik) (Bagian Buruk)

Hasil akhir menjahit kampuh Buka dapat dilihat dengan bagian sambungannya
terbuka/dibuka. Lalu kampuh di pipihkan.
Fungsi Kampuh Buka
Kampuh buka berfungsi untuk penyelesaian umum pada busana.
Contohnya : Gaun Wanita, Mantel, Rok, Blus, Celana, dan Sebagainya.
 Tekonologi Menjahit

Cara Menjahit Kampuh Buka

1. Kedua ujung kampuh di semat dengan jarum pentul, bagian muka (baik) kain saling berhadapan.
2. Kampuh bagian tengah disemat jarum pentul dengan teratur.
3. Beri Tanda dengan kapur jahit dan pita ukur, lebar kampuh untuk jahitan paling sedikit 2 cm
4. Jelujur Kampuh dengan jarak yang rata
5. Dijahit dengan mesin disebelah jelujur. Hindari menjahit tepat pada benang jelujur.
Karena akan sulit mencabut Benang Jelujur tersebut.
6. Setelah Kampuh disatukan lalu di buka dengan jalan di setrika.
Penyelesaian Kampuh Buka Tekonologi Menjahit

Penyelesaian tepi kampuh buka ada bermacam – macam diantaranya, kampuh buka di jahit / setik mesin,
kampuh buka di obras, kampuh buka di gunting zigzag, kampuh buka di rompok, kampuh buka dijahit feston.

Tiras Disetik Mesin

Dengan cara melipat kecil pinggiran kain lalu disetik degan mesin sepanjang lipatan tersebut. Jenis
setikan yang digunakan dapat setikan lurus atau zigzag.

Tiras Di Obras
Tepi kain/ tiras kampuh disepanjang tepi kain diselesaikan dengan menggunakan mesin obras.

Tiras Di Rompok
Penyelesaian ini hanya dipakai unttuk busana yang dibuat dari bahan/kain tebal. Kegunaannya untuk
menyambungkan ( menjahit ) bagian-bagian sisi rok, jas, sisi mantel, sisi celana, dan belakang
celana.

Tiras Di Gunting Zig-Zag

Kampuh buka dengan penyelesaian yang digunting zig – zag digunakan untuk penyelesaian bahan
yang tidak terlalu bertiras atau sama sekali tidak bertiras.
Tiras Di selesaikan Dengan tusuk Feston
Kampuh buka dengan penyelesaian tiras di sepanjang pinggiran tiras diselesaikan dengan
tusuk feston.
 Kampuh Balik Tekonologi Menjahit

1. Kampuh balik
Kampuh balik yaitu kampuh yang dikerjakan dengan teknik membalikkan
dengan dua kali jahit.
Digunakan untuk Menjahit kebaya yang terbuat dari bahan tipis, atau bahan
yang tembus terang, pakaian anak, pakaian pesta yang terbuat dari bahan
halus

Cara Menjahit

a. Tambahkan kampuh yang diperlukan 1 cm

b. Semat dengan jarum pentul bagian buruk berhadapan,disemat tepat pada garis rader
c. Kampuh dijahit dari bagian baik dengan jarak ½ cm diluar garis rader
d. Tiras kampuh digunting, sisakan 3 mm dari jahitan pertama
e. Tiras kampuh dimampatkan dari bagian buruk
f. Kampuh dilipat ke bagian buruk, tepi lipatan digores dengan kuku agar pipih
g. Kampuh dijahit untuk kedua kalinya tepat pada garis rader. pesta yang terbuat dari bahan halus
 Kampuh Balik
Tekonologi Menjahit

2. Kampuh balik semu / palsu / kostum

Kampuh balik semu / palsu bisa disebut juga kampuh
penyelesaian kerung lengan

3. Kampuh balik yang diubah / digeser

Kampuh balik yang diubah / digeser adalah kampuh yang dijahit dengan dua kali setikan yang salah satu bagian kain licin/
rata dan satunya lagi berkerut. Lebar kampuh yang licin sesuai dengan ukuran yang ditentukan dan lebar kain yang
berkerut 3 x lebar kampuh yang licin. Setikan pertama dijahit pada bagian baik yaitu pada garis ½ cm dari tiras. Kain
ditumpuk dengan bagian baik bertemu bagian baik, lalu dijahit pada bagian buruk seperti kampuh balik biasa, tetapi
bedanya dibalik ke bagian buruk kampuh yang licin sehingga menutup tiras yang ½ cm. Kemudian setikan kedua dijahit
tepat pada jahitan pertama bagian yang berkerut. Kampuh ini di pakai untuk busana anak pada sambungan garis
pinggang dan pas dada.
 Kampuh Pipih Tekonologi Menjahit

1. Kampuh balik
Kampuh pipih yaitu kampuh yang mempunyai bekas jahitan pada satu sisi sebanyak dua setikan, dan sisi
yang sebelahnya satu setikan, kampuh ini bisa dipakai untuk dua sisi (untuk bagian luar atau bagian dalam
yang mana keduanya sama-sama bersih). Teknik menjahit kampuh pipih, lipatkan kain yang pinggirannya
bertiras selebar 1,5 cm menjadi 0,5 cm, tutup tirasnya dengan lipatan yang satu lagi. Kampuh ini dipakai
untuk menjahit kemeja, celana, jaket, pakaian bayi, dsb.

Cara Menjahit
a.Tambahan kampuh yang diperlukan 1 cm
b.Semat dengan jarum pentul pada bagian buruk berhadapan, lalu dijahit tepat pada garis rader
c.Kampuh dimampatkan / setrika ke satu arah pada bagian baik.
d.Kampuh dibagian bawah digunting sampai kira – kira sebesar 3 mm dan kampuh bagian atas
dilipat ± 0,5 cm dan dijahit tepi dari bagian baik.
 Kampuh Sarung
Kampuh Sarung
Kampuh sarung adalah kampuh yang tampak dari kedua sisinya.
Kegunaan kampuh sarung ini adalah untuk menjahit kain sarung
pelakat (kain sarung bercorak/kotak-kotak) ketika menjahit
corak/kotaknya harus sama juga untuk menjahit kemeja, jas, dan
jaket.

Cara Membuat :
a. Tambahan kampuh yang diperlukan ± 6 mm
b. Semat dengan jarum pentul bagian baik berhadapan dengan bagian buruk
tepat pada garis rader
c. Kampuh bagian atas dilipat ke bagian buruk dan bagian bawah dilipat ke
bagian baik
d. Jahit bagian tepi, bagian baik dan buruk
e. Hasil jahitan bagian luar dan dalam sama. Tekonologi Menjahit
 Tekonologi Menjahit

Kampuh Konveksi
Kampuh Konveksi
Kampuh tertutup yang diselesaikan dengan obras, yaitu penyelesaian di sepanjang pinggiran tiras
diselesaikan dengan diobras. Cara ini pada saat sekarang banyak di pakai terutama untuk busana
pria.

Cara Menjahit

a.Tambahan kampuh yang diperlukan 1 cm

b.Semat dengan jarum pentul dengan bagian baik berhadapan, lalu dijahit tepat pada garis rader
c.Tiras kampuh diobras
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