“FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF HAIR GROWTH ENHANCING

EFFECTS OF OLEOGELS MADE FROM ROSEMARY AND CEDAR WOOD OILS”

FORMULASI DAN EVALUASI EFEK PENINGKATAN PERTUMBUHAN RAMBUT

DARI OLEOGEL YANG TERBUAT DARI MINYAK
ROSEMARY DAN KAYU CEDAR

Diajukan guna memenuhi tugas Mata Kuliah Kosmetika

RESUME JURNAL INTERNASIONAL

Dosen Pengampu:
apt. Eka Deddy Irawan, S.Si., M.Sc.

Disusun Oleh:
Dafena Alief Nur Verada
NIM 212210101009
Kelas A

FAKULTAS FARMASI
UNIVERSITAS JEMBER
2023
Jurnal Scientific African
Judul Formulation and evaluation of hair growth enhancing effects of oleogels
made from rosemary and cedar wood oils
(Formulasi dan evaluasi efek peningkatan pertumbuhan rambut dari oleogel
yang terbuat dari minyak rosemary dan kayu cedar)
Reputasi Q1

Reputasi dapat diakses pada

https://www.scimagojr.com/journalsearch.php?q=21100904987&tip=sid&c
lean=0
Volume dan Vol 16 Hal 1-8
Halaman
Tahun 2022
Penulis Emmanuel Uronnachi, Chidiogo Atuegwu, Chukwuebuka Umeyor, Calistus
Nwakile, Josephat Obasi, Chidalu Ikeotuonye, Anthony Attama
Sumber Jurnal tersedia online pada
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2468227622001302
Mengenalkan Jurnal ini dapat ditujukan bagi pembaca yang ingin mengetahui dan meneliti
Jurnal lebih lanjut terkait dengan formulasi dan evaluasi oleogel yang mengandung
minyak kayu cedar dan minyak rosemary terhadap peningkatan pertumbuhan
rambut
Latar Belakang Rambut rontok adalah kelainan yang dapat mengganggu fungsi biologis
rambut, seperti perlindungan terhadap sinar matahari pada kulit kepala dan
penyebaran produk kelenjar keringat. Saat ini obat-obatan untuk rambut
rontok hanya terbatas pada obat yang memiliki manfaat jangka pendek dan
efek samping yang cukup tinggi sehingga diperlukan kandidat obat lain yang
memiliki manfaat jangka panjang dan efek samping yang rendah. Salah satu
 kandidat obat lain adalah minyak kayu cedar dan minyak rosemary yang
telah digunakan selama 100 tahun sebagai pengobatan empiris untuk rambut
rontok. Oleh karena itu, penelitian ini bertujuan untuk memformulasikan
oleogel yang mengandung minyak esensial cedarwood dan rosemary secara
tunggal dan kombinasi serta mengevaluasi efek peningkatan pertumbuhan
rambut pada model hewan.
Tujuan Untuk memformulasi oleogel yang mengandung dua minyak esensial (Kayu
Cedar dan Rosemary) secara tunggal dan kombinasi serta mengevaluasi efek
peningkatan pertumbuhan rambut pada model hewan.
Subjek Minyak kayu cedar dan minyak rosemary
Metode Oleogel dibentuk menggunakan lilin lebah sebagai organogelator.
Konsentrasi minyak kayu cedar dan rosemary yang digunakan 10 % apabila
minyak diformulasikan sendiri atau 5% masing-masing minyak bila
diformulasikan dalam kombinasi. Karakterisasi oleogel dilakukan dengan
menggunakan daya sebar, kapasitas pengikatan minyak (OBC/Oil Binding
Capacity), kromatografi gas (GC/Gas Chromatography) ,dan kalorimetri
pemindaian diferensial (DSC/Differential Scanning Calorimeter). Evaluasi
pertumbuhan rambut dilakukan pada 18 tikus albino dalam enam kelompok
yang terdiri dari tiga tikus. Krim penghilang bulu dioleskan pada hewan
percobaan dan oleogel dioleskan selama enam minggu. Terdapat kontrol
negatif yang tidak diberikan oleogel dan kontrol positif yang diberikan
minoxidil 2%.
Hasil dan Analisis GC terhadap minyak kayu cedar menunjukkan adanya thujopsene,
Pembahasan alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, pentane, alpha cedrenea, beta cedrenea, alpha
cedrol, gamma-terpene, acetonitrite, atlantone, terpinolene. Dalam minyak
rosemary mengandung 1-8 cineole , kapur barus, alfa-pinene, beta-pinene,
camphene, p-cymene, alpha-terpinene, gamma terpinene, gammahumulene,
beat-bisabolene, genaniol dan terpinolene. Termogram DSC dari formulasi
oleogel menunjukkan tingkat amorfisitas yang bervariasi.
Hasil daya sebar menunjukkan bahwa oleogel yang mengandung minyak
kayu cedar lebih mudah menyebar. Sebaliknya, nilai kapasitas pengikatan
minyak (OBC) lebih tinggi pada minyak rosemary dibandingkan minyak
kayu cedar dengan nilai berkisar antara 91% (untuk oleogel yang
 mengandung 10 % minyak rosemary) hingga 81% untuk oleogel lunak
(tanpa minyak esensial). Evaluasi pertumbuhan rambut menunjukkan bahwa
oleogel yang mengandung minyak rosemary (10%) memiliki efek yang sama
dengan kontrol positif (Minoxidil, 2%) pada akhir periode enam minggu.
Kesimpulan Oleogel yang terbuat dari minyak kayu cedar dan minyak rosemary memiliki
efek meningkatkan pertumbuhan rambut. Formulasi yang mengandung
minyak rosemary (10 %) dan propilen glikol 5% memiliki efek peningkatan
pertumbuhan rambut terbaik yang serupa dengan kontrol
positif (Minoxidil, 2%)
 REFERENSI
Uronnachi, E., dkk. 2022. Formulation and evaluation of hair growth enhancing effects of
oleogels made from rosemary and cedar wood oils. Scientific African, 16:1-8.
 Scientific African 16 (2022) e01223

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Scientific African
journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/sciaf

Formulation and evaluation of hair growth enhancing effects

of oleogels made from Rosemary and Cedar wood oils
Emmanuel Uronnachi 1,∗, Chidiogo Atuegwu 1, Chukwuebuka Umeyor 1,
Calistus Nwakile 1, Josephat Obasi 1, Chidalu Ikeotuonye 1, Anthony Attama 2
1
Department of Pharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Nnamdi Azikiwe University, Awka,
Anambra State, Nigeria
2
Department of Pharmaceutics, University of Nigeria, Nsukka, Enugu State, Nigeria

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Essential oils are one of the most popular natural products, with broad applications in
Received 2 November 2020 dermatology. Hair loss is a disorder in which the hair falls out from skin areas where they
Revised 21 February 2022
are usually present, such as the scalp and the body.
Accepted 16 May 2022
The aim of the work was to formulate oleogels containing two essential oils (Cedar-
wood and Rosemary) singly and in combination and evaluate their hair growth enhancing
Editor: DR B Gyampoh effect on an animal model. Oleogels were formed using beeswax as the organogelator with
concentrations of 10 % for the oils when used singly or 5 % each for the oils when formu-
Keywords:
lated in combination. Characterization of oleogels were done using spreadability, oil bind-
Oleogel
ing capacity (OBC), gas chromatography (GC) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
organogelator
Rosemary oil Hair growth evaluation was carried out in 18 albino rats in six groups of threes. A hair
Cedarwood oil removal cream was applied on the experimental animals and the Oleogel applied for six-
Beeswax weeks.
Hair growth GC analysis of the oils revealed the presence of thujopsene, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene,
pentane, alpha cedrenea, beta cedrenea, alpha cedrol, gamma-terpene, acetonitrite, at-
lantone, terpinolene in cedarwood oil while rosemary oil contained 1-8 cineole, cam-
phor, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, camphene, p-cymene, alpha-terpinene, gamma terpinene,
gamma-humulene, beat-bisabolene, genaniol and terpinolene. DSC thermogram of the
oleogel formulations showed varying degrees of amorphicity.
Spreadability results showed that the oleogels containing cedarwood oil were more
spreadable. Conversely, oil binding capacity values were higher with Rosemary oil than
Cedar wood oil with values ranging from 91 % (for the oleogel containing 10 % rosemary
oil) to 81 % for the bland oleogel (no essential oil). Hair growth evaluation revealed that
the oleogel containing rosemary oil (10 %) had similar effects as the positive control (Mi-
noxidil, 2 %) at the end of the six-week period.
Oleogels made from cedar wood and rosemary oils have hair growth enhancing effects.
© 2022 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. on behalf of African Institute of
Mathematical Sciences / Next Einstein Initiative.
This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/)

∗
Corresponding author.
E-mail address: Em.uronnachi@unizik.edu.ng (E. Uronnachi).

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sciaf.2022.e01223
2468-2276/© 2022 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. on behalf of African Institute of Mathematical Sciences / Next Einstein Initiative. This is an
open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/)
E. Uronnachi, C. Atuegwu, C. Umeyor et al. Scientific African 16 (2022) e01223

Introduction

Complementary and alternative medicines are used by 60–80 % of developing countries because they are one of the
most prevalent medicines worldwide [18]. Essential oils are among the most popular natural products, with significant
applications in dermatology. The essential oils are natural, nontoxic, non-pollutive, and biodegradable compounds with a
wide range of therapeutic benefits and a low risk of side effects after their use. Currently, semisolid products have been of
paramount importance in the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, nutraceuticals and food industries. They have been used as gels,
lotions, creams, ointments and jellies. In general, gel-based products are classified depending on the polarity of the liquid
component, as hydrogels, emulgels, and organogels or oleogels. The use of oleogels has been exploited in pharmaceutical,
cosmetics, and nutraceutical industries for their desired rheological, physical, and chemical stabilities in semisolid formula-
tions [3]. Oleogels are characterized by many favourable features such as mucoadhesion, thixotropy or ease of spreadability
[31]. Oleogels are composed of lipophilic fluids gelled with suitable gelling agents. They can be designed to deliver both
lipophilic (such as essential oils) and hydrophilic drugs [31].
The process of hair growth occurs through different distinct phases: hair fiber production phase (anagen); a transient
regression phase (catagen) and a final resting phase (telogen) [21]. Hair loss is a disorder in which the hair falls out from
skin areas where they are usually present, such as the scalp and the body [4]. This loss interferes with the many useful
biologic functions of the hair like sun protection (mainly to the scalp) and dispersal of sweat gland products [4].
Current United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-approved treatment options for hair loss are restricted to
topical Minoxidil (for men and women), oral Finasteride (men only), and low-level light therapy (men and women) [2,9].
Unfortunately, all therapies are limited by their incomplete efficacy and risk of recurrence after cessation, with untoward
side effects [11,23,32]. Corticosteroids can be administered orally, topically, or as intralesional injections; however, they have
only short-term benefits and systemic use is associated with multiple adverse effects [13].
Cedarwood, lavender, thyme, and rosemary oils have been used anecdotally for over 100 years to treat hair loss [13].
Other medicinal herbs have also been explored for their potential in enhancing hair growth [1,8,14,15,20,27,29,30]. Current
literature reviews suggest that oleogel is a promising base for various drugs to design topical formulations [24]. The absence
of an aqueous component offers a better physical, microbiological and chemical stability when compared with conventional
topical bases, while the manufacturing process is simple. The work was therefore aimed at formulating oleogels containing
cedarwood and rosemary essential oils singly and in combination and evaluating their hair growth enhancing effect on an
animal model.

Materials and methods

Materials

Weighing balance (HX-T, China), paraffin oil, beeswax (Qualikem, India), cedarwood oil and rosemary oil (Vanity oil, Lagos
Nigeria), olive oil (Goya, Spain).

Methods

Oleogel formulation
The oleogel was formulated using the formula below:
Briefly, about 26 g of the olive oil and 8 g of beeswax were weighed and transferred to a beaker. This was put in a
paraffin bath and placed on a magnetic stirrer, and the temperature set to 70 °C and a stirring speed of 200 rpm until the
beeswax completely dissolved. Afterwards, 2 g of propylene glycol was transferred into the beaker. After ensuring a proper
mix, the temperature of the bath was reduced to 40 °C before adding 4 g of essential oil (cedarwood oil) in aliquot into the
beaker while stirring at the same time. After completely adding the essential oil, stirring was continued for another five (5)
minutes to ensure complete homogenization. The homogenized preparation was then brought down from the paraffin bath
to allow it to cool after which it was carefully transferred into the container.

Characterization of Oleogel
Oil binding capacity (OBC). This property was measured according to a modified method of Yılmaz and Öğütcü [25].
The empty eppendorf tubes were labelled appropriately and weighed using the weighing balance (HX-T, China). After-
wards, 1 g of the preparation (oleogel) in each batch was transferred into the eppendorf tube, reweighed and recorded.
The eppendorf tubes were refrigerated at a temperature of 4 °C for 1 h. After refrigeration, the eppendorf tubes were re-
weighed and centrifuged using a refrigerated centrifuge (TGL-20M, China) at a speed of 9167 x g for 15 min. These were
done in triplicate and the OBC was then calculated using the formula:
(b − a ) − (c − a )
% Released oil = × 100 (1)
(b − a )

% OBC = 100- Released oil (2)

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E. Uronnachi, C. Atuegwu, C. Umeyor et al. Scientific African 16 (2022) e01223

Where: a = weight of empty Eppendorf tube b = weight of Eppendorf tube after refrigeration c = weight of Eppendorf tube
after centrifugation

Spreadability. This was performed using the slide and weight method according to Mbah [22] as reported by Kenechukwu
et al. [19] with slight modification (100 g weight was used). About 0.5 g of oleogel formulation was placed on a glass slide
and a second glass slide was placed over it. Subsequently, the diameter of the spread was measured. Then, a weight of 100
g was placed to rest at the upper glass slide for 5 min. The increase in diameter (in cm) due to spreading of the oleogel
was recorded. This was done in triplicate and spreadability was calculated using the formula below:
Increase in diameter
Spreadability (% ) = × 100 (3)
Initial diameter

Thermal analysis (DSC). This was carried out using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC 204, NETZSCHE, Germany). Sam-
ples were heated from 10 °C to 250 °C at a rate of 10 °C per minute and baseline correction was observed.

Gas chromatography. Samples of Rosemary oil and Cedarwood oil were prepared according to standard procedure (AOAC
1990) and analysed using Gas Chromatography (GC).

Hair growth evaluation in experimental animal

Eighteen albino rats were allocated into six groups of three rats and used for the experiment. Before commencement
of the experiment, the rats were acclimatized for a period of seven (7) days under standard environmental conditions of
temperature, relative humidity, and 12 hours dark/ light cycle. All animal experiments were conducted in compliance with
the ethical guidelines of the animal ethics committee of the Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Nnamdi Azikiwe University,
Awka, Nigeria and NIH guide for care and use of laboratory animals (Pub NO: 85-23 Revised 1985).

Induction of hair loss. Hair loss was induced in the experimental animals using a commercially available hair removal cream
(Veet ®). This was done for all the experimental animals allocated into the different groups.

Treatment of hair loss. This was done according to the following sequence: Batches 1, 3, 5 and 6 of the oleogel formulation
were applied to the experimental animals in groups 1, 2, 3 and 4 respectively. While minoxidil (2 %) was applied to the ex-
perimental animals in group 5 (positive control) and nothing was applied on the experimental animals in group 6 (negative
control).

Evaluation of hair growth in experimental animal. Three hair samples from each of the grouped experimental animals were
collected and the length was measured in centimetre using a flexible meter rule. The hair density was also taken using a
scoring approach of 0 for no hair growth; 1 for less than 25 % hair growth; 2 for 25 to < 50 % hair growth; 3 for 50 to < 75
% hair growth; 4 for 75 to < 100 % hair growth [21,27]. These were done for basal and also for a six-week period at regular
intervals.

Results and discussion

Characterization of Oleogel

The spreadability profile was assessed using weight method. Results as shown in fig. 1 revealed that the spreadability of
the oleogel formulation (Batch 1) containing cedarwood with propylene glycol was higher than other batches. The presence
of propylene glycol in the batches did not improve the spreadability as was evidenced in the lower spreadability of batch
3 containing rosemary oil when compared with batch 4 that contained the same rosemary oil but had no propylene glycol.
However, batch 1 had a higher spreadability than batch 2 that contained similar ingredients but no propylene glycol. The
difference in the spreadability values may have been caused by the rheological properties of the individual oils (cedar wood
and rosemary oil) used in the study. Spreadability of semi solid formulations, that is the ability of a gel to evenly spread
on the skin, plays an important role in the administration of a standard dose of a medicated formulation to the skin. The
spreadability of dermal applications is a guide to the ease of application of such samples to a thinly layered surface [25].
This will affect the effective surface area of the application, as more spreadable substances will require less friction to spread
thereby occupying a greater surface area for both cosmetic and therapeutic effect.
The oil binding capacity shown in Fig. 2 revealed that all the batches had good oil binding capacity (greater than 80 %)
with batch 3 having the highest capacity of 91 %. The results also revealed that the oleogel had a better oil binding capacity
for Rosemary oil than Cedarwood oil. This effect was noticed even in the batch incorporating equal ratios of both oils (Batch
5) as its oil binding capacity was greater than that of Cedarwood oil alone.
Oil binding capacity is also another measure of the stability and spreadability of oleogels [25]. Lower oil binding capaci-
ties could give rise to softer oleogels, which would affect the firmness and texture of the preparations [5,7]. Also, the nature
and concentration of organogelator used has an effect on the oil binding capacity of the oleogel. Lower concentrations of

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E. Uronnachi, C. Atuegwu, C. Umeyor et al. Scientific African 16 (2022) e01223

Fig. 1. Spreadability Chart

Fig. 2. Oil Binding Capacity Chart

organogelator may give rise to very soft oleogels that may not sufficiently hold the oil; conversely, a high organogelator
concentration could give rise to a very viscous oleogel that would be poorly spreadable. A suitable concentration has to be
determined experimentally. Preliminary investigations carried out using lower concentrations of oleogelator (5, 10 and 15 %)
showed different degrees of firmness with higher concentrations of oleogelator being less fluid. For our study, the beeswax
(organogelator) concentration of 20 % yielded oleogels with the desired firmness, oil binding capacity and spreadability. Our
results are in concordance with that of some researchers who have demonstrated the effect of increasing oleogelator con-
centrations on firmness and oil binding capacity of oils [26,34]. In addition, the ability of an oleogelator to gel a solvent is

4
E. Uronnachi, C. Atuegwu, C. Umeyor et al. Scientific African 16 (2022) e01223

Fig. 3. Hair Length Chart

a function of the solubility of the gelator in a given solvent (oil) [5]. This solubility is influenced by the nature and polarity
of the solvent [33]. These may explain the differing oil binding capacity results obtained with the batches incorporating
the different oils (Cedarwood and Rosemary). The presence of propylene glycol had a positive effect on the oil binding ca-
pacities of the formulations containing the oils- Cedarwood and Rosemary oil as was evidenced in the greater oil binding
capacities of batch 1 over batch 2 and batch 3 over batch 4. In addition, the nature of the oils may have played a role as
oleogels containing rosemary oil (batches 3, 4 and 5) had higher oil binding capacities than those containing cedarwood, in
the presence or absence of propylene glycol.
Thermal analysis of cedarwood oil, rosemary oil, olive oil, beeswax, and various batches of oleogel formulation shown
in Supplementary materials 1 and 2 revealed that beeswax is crystalline while the oils are amorphous. The thermogram of
crystalline substances gives sharp peaks while the thermogram of amorphous substances gives broad peaks.
Gas chromatogram of cedarwood oil and rosemary oil was utilized to evaluate the content of the Rosemary oil and
Cedarwood oil shown in Supplementary materials 3 and 4.
Supplementary material three (3) shows GC chromatogram of Cedarwood oil. Compounds observed include Thujopsene,
Alpha-pinene, Beta-pinene, pentane, Alpha cedrenea, Beta cedrenea, Alpha cedrol, Gamma-terpene, Acetonitrite, Atlantone,
Terpinolene.
A few of the compounds such as thujopsene and alpha cedrol have been noted to have therapeutic activities, which
include anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, tonic, astringent, diuretic, sedative, insecticidal and antifungal activities [16]. Ter-
pinolene has some anticancer effect [28].
Supplementary material four (4) shows GC Chromatogram of rosemary oil. Compounds observed include 1-8 cine-
ole, camphor, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, camphene, p-cymene,alpha-terpinene, gamma terpinene, gamma-humulene, beat-
bisabolene, genaniol and terpinolene.
A few have been noted to have activities such as 1-8 cineole known for its mucolytic and spasmolytic action on the
respiratory tract [17]. Camphor relieves pain and promotes hair growth [6].

Hair growth evaluation in experimental animals

Fig. 3 showed the hair length of the experimental animals during the six-week period interval. It was observed that the
oleogel formulation increased the hair length of the experimental animals. In week 1, there was no pronounced growth in
hair length. In week 2, there was pronounced growth in batch 3 and very pronounced growth in positive control when
compared with Negative control. In week 3, 4 and 5, there were very pronounced growth in both batch 3 and positive
control. In week 6, there was a pronounced growth in batch 5 and very pronounced growth in batch 3 and positive control
when compared with the negative control. Batch 3 had almost the same effect with the positive control which means that
it has hair growth enhancing effect.

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E. Uronnachi, C. Atuegwu, C. Umeyor et al. Scientific African 16 (2022) e01223

Fig. 4. Hair Density Chart

Table 1
Batch composition of preparations

Batch 1 Batch 2 Batch 3 Batch 4 Batch 5 Batch 6

Ingredients Percentage quantities (%)

Beeswax 20 20 20 20 20 20
Rosemary oil _ _ 10 10 5 _
Cedarwood oil 10 10 _ _ 5 _
Propylene glycol 5 _ 5 _ 5 5
Olive oil 65 70 65 70 65 75

Fig. 4 showed the hair density of the experimental animals during the six weeks period interval. Hair density means “hair
fullness” i.e. the number of strands. It was observed that the application of the oleogel formulation on the experimental
animals within the scheduled period of study increased their hair density. The hair densities were found to be within the
scale of 0-4. The batch 3 oleogel had a hair density of 75-100 % (score of 4) while the negative control had a hair density
of only 25-50 % (score of 2) indicating that the oleogel formulation had hair density enhancing effect.
The results of hair length and hair density evaluations illustrate the effect of the animal’s body to grow hair on its own,
as evidenced in the growth observed with the negative group. However, as was also observed, the growth arising from the
formulations and the positive control exceeded that of the negative control alone. Subtractions of the growth of the negative
control from other formulations were made and are presented in supplementary materials 5 and 6. These figures give the
growth that could be attributable to the formulations and positive control alone.
Similar works investigating the ability of essential oils to promote hair growth have been done and these include studies
by Hay et al. [12], Oh et al. [27], Shatalebi et al. [30] and Goren & Naccarato [10]. These studies illustrated the hair growth
enhancing effects of essential oils (Table 1).

Conclusion

Oleogels containing rosemary oil and cedarwood oil were successfully formulated using beeswax as the organogelator
and their hair growth potential evaluated. The formulation containing rosemary oil (10 %) and propylene glycol (Batch 3)
had the best hair growth enhancing effect similar to that obtained from commercial preparations of minoxidil (2 %). The
combination of both oils (Cedarwood and Rosemary oils) did not offer any synergistic effect. Future investigations can target

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E. Uronnachi, C. Atuegwu, C. Umeyor et al. Scientific African 16 (2022) e01223

the effect of essential oil concentration on improving hair growth. In addition, further research is necessary to ascertain the
toxicity of this preparation in comparison with commercially available preparations (e.g. minoxidil).

Declaration of Competing Interest

None.

Funding

This research did not receive any specific grant from funding agencies in the public, commercial, or not-for-profit sectors.

Supplementary materials

Supplementary material associated with this article can be found, in the online version, at doi:10.1016/j.sciaf.2022.e01223.

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