BODY LOTION
Merupakan sediaan kosmetik berbentuk emulsi
yang ditujukan untuk perawatan kulit tubuh
(lengan dan kaki). Biasanya body lotion lebih
ditujukan untuk menjaga kelembaban kulit dan
mencegah dari sengatan matahari (SPF). Selain
itu body lotion juga harus mempunyai nilai estetika
misalnya memberikan aroma yang
menyenangkan. Seiring dengan kebutuhan pasar
maka sekarang body lotion juga ditujukan untuk
whitening
BODY LOTION
Seperti halnya pelembab pada wajah, body lotion merupakan pelembab
pada badan. Biasanya diaplikasikan pada tangan dan kaki. Rata-rata body
lotion mempunyai viskositas yang tidak begitu tinggi, sediaan masih
mengalir jika dituangkan
Syarat-syarat umum
-Mempunyai daya melembabkan yang bagus
-Meninggalkan kesan lembut dikulit
-Tidak menyebabkan iriitasi pada kulit atau aman digunakan
Syarat-syarat estetika
-Tidak memberikan kesan lengket
-Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik
-Spreading bagus saat diaplikasi
Syarat formulasi
-Stabil dalam penyimpanan dan saat dijual
-Sebaiknya mempunyai pH sekitar 4-7
Komposisi
BODY LOTION
Utama:
Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase
Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous
Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier)
Tambahan:
BODY LOTION
Biasanya untuk body lotion mempunyai tipe emulsi O/W jadi:
1. Phase luar adalah air (jumlah terbanyak). Biasanya kedalam phase
air ini ditambahkan pengental seperti turunan selulosa (carbopol,
dll) dan humectant seperti gliserin atau propilen glikol. Jika
menggunakan pengawet yang larut dalam air maka pengawet ini
ditambahkan ke phase air
2. Phase dalam adalah minyak (biasanya menggunakan minyak nabati
seperti minyak zaitun, minyak kedelai, dll). Untuk memberikan
sensasi yang enak pada saat diaplikasi biasanya ditambahakan
silikon seperti dimetichone atau cyclometicone.
3. Emulsifier harus dipilih yang cocok dengan tujuan penggunaan
body lotion, milsalnya jika body lotion mengandung tingkat
keasaman yang ditinggi maka pilihnya emulsifier yang tahan asam.
Sama seperti surfactant maka emulsifier juga dibagi atas beberapa
tipe
TIPE EMULSIFIER
Surfactant chemical class
Anionic
Carboxylic acid
Carboxylic acid ester
Sulfate acid ester
Amino acid amides
Soaps
Lactylate, PEG alkyl carboxylate
Alkyl sulfate, Sulfated monoglyceride
Sarcosinate. Acylated peptides
Cationic
Amines
Quaternaries
Amphoteric
Phospate
Amine derivative
Phospolipid
N-alkyl amino acids
Nonionic
Alcohol
Ether
Ester
Polymers
Fatty alcohol
Alkoxylated fatty alcohol, PEG-phenol ethers
Acyl sorbitant, PEG-derivative, Acyl glyceride
PEG block polymers, PEG-silicone derivative
Emulsifier
Relation between HLB range and Surfactant applications
HLB Range
Use
0-3
Anti foaming
4-6
7-9
Wetting agent
8-18
13-15
Detergent
10-18
Solubilizing agent
Sensorial performances
Dimethicone
6
5,9
5
4,7
Medium-high MW
hydr. Polydecene
2 Octyl dodecanol
4
3,7
3,5
Medium MW hydr.
Polydecene
IPM
3
2,5
0
10
Heaviness
Low MW hydr.
Polydecene
Isohexadecane
castor oil
9
sweet almond oil
5
4,4
High MW
nexbase2008FG
hydr. polydecene
4
3,5
3,1
olive oil
medium MW
panalaneL14E
hydr. polydecene
2
1,6
medium MW
nexbase2006FG
hydr. polydecene
nexbase2004FGMineral oil
vaseline oil
Low MW
nexbase2002CG
1
0
10
greasy feel
hydr. polydecene
arlamol
HD
isohexadecane
Polarity index
Non Polar
Isoparafin (C12-C14 grade)
Polarity index
Polar
53
Isopropyl stearate
21.9
Squalene
46.2
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride
21.3
Isohexadecane
43.8
Isopropyl isostearate
21.2
Mineral Oil
43.7
Jojoba oil
20.8
Cyclomethicone
20.6
Peanut oil
20.5
Polar
Cetostearyl octanoate (Purcellin Oil)
28.6
Almond oil
20.3
Dimetichone
26.6
19.3
Isopropyl palmitate
25.2
Decyl oleate
18.7
Octyl dodecanol
24.8
Avocado Oil
18.3
Dioctyladipate
24.5
Olive oil
16.9
Isopropyl myristate
24.2
Castor oil
13.7
Octyl Palmitate
23.1
Calendula oil
11.1
Hexamethyl disiloxane
22.7
8.3
Chemical name
Functions
total 10%
0.5-1
0-3
2-5
Emulsifier
qs
1-5
qs
qs
Active
anti lengket, silky feel
Gliserin, PG
Carbopol
2-5
0.1-0.3
menjaga kelembaban
qs
to 100
qs
Active
Vitamine, vegatable
extract, UV-Filter, dll
Dimethicone
Vitamin E atau BHT
Oil Base
Viscosity modifier
Viscosity modifier
SOAP
Merupakan sediaan kosmetika yang digunakan untuk membersihkan
badan dari pengotor. Secara umum soap dibagi atas
1.Conventional Soap (soap)
2.Soap based surfactan
Hal dasar yang membedakan kedua sabun diatas adalah sumber
sabunnya. Conventional soap didapatkan dari reaksi penyabunan antara
NaOH atau KOH dengan fatty alcohol/fatty acid atau vegatable oil seperti
coconut, palm, castor, olive,dll. Sabun yang dihasilkan dengan cara ini
mempunyai keuntungan yakni derajat busanya yang banyak tapi
mempunyai tingkat iritasi yang cukup tinggi. Soap based surfactant adalah
sabun yang dibuat berdasarkan penggunaan surfactant sebagai base
sabunnya. Sabunnya mempunyai busa yang kurang banyak dibandingkan
soap base tapi tingkat iritasinya lebih rendah
Ingredients utama
1.Surfactant
2.Viscosity modifier
Ingredients tambahan
1.Pewarna
2.Pewangi
3.Pengawet
4.dll
Ingredients active
1. Zat yang bersifat sebagai antiseptik
2. Deodorant
3.dll
Surfactant
Chemistry of surfactants
From the molecular structural point of view, they are divided
into 2 groups
1. Compunds having one or more hydrophobic and hydrophilic
groups with a general molecular weight several hundreds.
Hydrophobic groups containg 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical
hydrophilic groups are Anionic, Cationic, Amphoteric,
Nonionic
2. Oligomers having a molecular weight of thousands to tens of
thousands which are usually prepared by polymerization of
several to hundreds of monomer units.
Surfactant
Anionic
All members or this class of surfactant carry negative charge on
the hydrophilic group. As a group, anionics are not compatible
with cationic amphiphiles.
Carboxylate COONa+
Sulfate
-OSO3-Na+
Phosphonate
-PO32-2Na+
Sulfonate
-SO3-Na+
Taurate
Isethionate
Alkylaryl Sulfonate
Olefin Sulfonate
Sulfosuccinate
Acylated Amino Acids and Peptides
Sarcosinate
Surfactant
Cationic
Hydrophilic head carries a possitive charge. This group of
surfactants includes a variety of amines since neutralization of
the amino group with an acid yield a positively charge
ampholyte
Amine
(Alkylamine)
Quaternary ammonium compund
Alkoxylated amines
Alkylimidazolines
Pyridinium salt
Sulfonium salt
-CNH3+
-N+(CH3)3
-S+(CH3)2Cl-
Surfactant
Amphoteric
In this group there are two charges possitive and negative in a
molecule surfactant.
Amino acid
-NHC2H4COOH
Betaine
-N(CH3)2C2H4SO3
Aminosulfate -NHC2H4OSO3
Sulfobetaine
-N(CH3)2C2H4SO3
Surfactant
Nonionic
Amphiphiles that possess no charges at pH normally
encoutered in cosmetics. Their water solubility depends on
the presence of polar head groups, primarily hydroxyl or
ether.
Alcohols
Alkanolamides
Amine Oxide
Esters
Glycerides
Ethoxylated Glycerides
Polygluceryl esters
Carbohydrate esters
Ethoxylated carboxylyx acids
Phosphoric acid triester
Surfactant
Nonionic
Ethers
Ethoxylated alcohol
Ethoxylated (Propoxylated) polysiloxanes
Ethoxylated polypropylene oxide ether
Alkyl glycoside
2. Viscosity modifier
Digunakan untuk memberikan kekentalan pada sediaan
sabun cair
-Golongan Cellulose (Metolose, HPMC,) digunakan
sekitar 0.2 1%
-Golongan Polimer (Acrylate copolimer, Carbopol 2020)
digunakan sekitar 0.2 1%
- Golongan surfactant modified (Cocomide DEA,
Comparland KDT) digunakan sekitar 1-3 %
- Garam (NaCl) digunakan sekitar 0.2 3%
Body wash
No
Ingredient name
1 Water
2 Methylcellulose
Trade name
Water
function
Thickener
25
4 Coco betaine
Main Surfactant
Co surfactant, foam
booster
5
6
7
8
9
Cocamide DEA
NaCl
Preservative
Coloring agent
pf
Metochel
% of
usage
ad 100 Base
Dehyton HB
Comparland KDT
NaCl
4
1
qs
qs
qs
Co surfactant, viscosity
modifier
Viscosity modifier
BODY COLOGNE
BODY COLOGNE
Syarat umum
-Larutan jernih
-Tidak menyebabkan iritasi pada kulit
-Memberikan aroma yang enak
Syarat estetika
-Tidak memberikan kesan lengket
- Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik
- Memberikan kesan segar pada kulit
Syarat formulasi
- Stabil (tidak menjadi keruh selama penyimpanan dan penjualan)
- Sebaiknya mempunyai pH 4-7
BODY COLOGNE
TINJAUAN FORMULASI
Karena body cologne merupakan larutan, maka formulasinya sangat
sederhana dimana semua bahan yang dimasukkan kedalam pelarut harus
terlarut sempurna. Bisa juga menambahkan solubiliser untuk meningkatkan
kelarutan
KOMPOSISI
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Part
A
Komposisi
Ingredient
Pelarut
Aquadem
ad 100
Humectant
PG
Aktive
Ekstrak anggur
Solubiliser
Tween 20
0.2
50
Pelarut
Alkohol
Fragrance
Pf
Pewarna
Zat Warna
qs
BODY SCRUB
Merupakan sediaan berbentuk cream kental yang umumnya
dihasilkan dari proses saponifikasi dari fatty acid (biasanya asam
stearat) dengan basa (TEA, NaOH, KOH) ditambah dengan butiranbutiran halus yang berfungsi sebagai scrub.
Secara umum ada 2 fungsi yang harus dimiliki oleh body scrub
1. Daya bersih yang didapatkan dari base lulur sendiri atau dengan
tambahan co-surfactant untuk meningkatkan daya bersih
2. Daya exfoliating yang didapatkan dari scrub yang digunakan.
Umumnya ada 2 jenis scrub yakni alami (biji apricot, jagung, batu
apung, dll) dan sintetis (PE, silica, dll). Daya exfoliating scrub
ditentukan oleh ukuran scrub. Semakin kecil ukuran scrub maka
semakin kurang terasa pada penggunaannya tapi semakin tinggi daya
exfoliatingnya
BODY SCRUB
Syarat umum
- Daya bersih yang bagus
- Daya exfoliating yang bagus
- Tidak kasar
- Tidak membuat kulit kering
Syarat estetika
- Spreading bagus
- Pick up bagus
- Aroma, warna, performance menarik
Syarat formulasi
- Stabil (tidak pecah selama penyimpanan)
- Sebaiknya mempunyai pH < 7
Komposisi
BODY SCRUB
Utama:
Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase
Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous
Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier) atau saponifikasi system
Bead (Scrub)
Tambahan:
Ingredients
OIL PHASE
Polar/Non-polar type
Fatty alcohol
Fatty acids
Emulsifier
WATER PHASE
Humectant
Viscosity stabiliser
NaOH/KOH/TEA
Water
Preservative
PE/Natural bead
Chemical name
Mineral oil, Isopropyl
Merystate, olive oil
Cetyl alcohol
Stearic acid
PEG-100 sterate and
glycerol stearate
Gliserin, PG
Carbopol
<10%
0.5-1
5-15
2-5
Functions
Oil Base
Viscosity modifier
Saponifikasi Base
Emulsifier(if
needed)
menjaga
kelembaban
2-5
0.1-0.3
Sesuai fatty acid Saponifikasi base
to 100
qs
Qs (2-5%
Scrubbing agent
Gram-positive bacteria
Micrococcus luteus
Corynebacterium aquaticum
Corynebacterium flavescens
Corynebacterium callunae
Corynebacterium nephredi
Antiperspirant
An antiperspirant, as defined by the Department of Health and
Human Services in the final antiperspirant monograph published in
2003, reads as follows:
A drug product applied topically that reduces the production of
perspiration (sweat) at that site
There has always been some confusion in the industry that
consumers do not always relate to the basic difference between
antiperspirant and deodorant products.
Antiperspirants, because of their ability to reduce perspiration and
thus diminish the medium that is a factor in the development of
axillary odor, can also claim to be a deodorant.
However, because a deodorant product only reduces the body odor
and does not reduce perspiration it can only be labeled as a
deodorant
Regulation antiperspirant
In the United States an antiperspirant is categorized as
an over-the-counter (OTC) drug product and therefore
subject to regulations by the Food and Drug
Administration (FDA).
In the European Common Market antiperspirants are
considered to be cosmetic products and are therefore
subject to the European Cosmetic Directive
Antiperspirant products in Japan are regulated and
classified as quasi-drugs. A quasi-drug is an article used
only for certain purposes that are specifically designated
by the MHW (Ministry of Health and Welfare)
Emulsion
Ingredient
Phase A
1. Cyclopentasiloxane & PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer
12
2. Cyclomethicone
8
3. Phenyl Trimethicone
2
4. Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone
2
5. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
1
Phase B
6. Deionized Water
36.45
7. Water and Tritucum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract and
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate
1
8. Camelia HS
0.3
9. Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract (and) Alcohol
1
10. Water and Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate
30
Phase C
11. Triclosan
0.2
12. Dipropylene Glycol
5
Phase D
13. Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol
0.05
14. Fragrance
1
Procedure
1. In the main mixing vessel, add ingredients of phase A and mix.
2. In a separate vessel, combine phase B ingredients in order.
3. In a separate vessel, combine phase C ingredients and warm gently while stirring until clear.
4. Add phase C to phase B while mixing.
5. Begin rapid, turbulent mixing of phase A. Use a dual blade configuration.
6. Add phase B / C to phase A very slowly using a seperatory funnel while maintaining turbulent mixing of phase A.
7. After the addition is complete, mix for an additional 10 minutes.
8. Reduce mixing speed and blend in phase D until uniform.
Thickening Agents In
Cosmetics
Stokes's law - is the basis of the fallingsphere viscometer, in which the fluid is stationary in a
vertical glass tube. A sphere descends through the
liquid. it reaches terminal velocity, which can be
measured by the time it takes to pass two marks on the
tube.
Thixiotropy - It is a property of certain gels which tend
to flow on the account of stress applied on it.
Carbomers
A family of Cross-Linked Acid Polymers
They are essential ingredients in Cosmetics and
Pharmaceuticals
They are Excellent Rheology Modifiers
Carbopol Polymers
They are High Mol.Wt Polyacrylic acids,
Cross-Linked with polyalkenylether
They provide Thickening with a wide range of flow
properties
Thickening
Mechanism
Weight %
Function
Deionized Water
61.2
Diluent
PVP
2.5
Neutralizing Agent
CARBOPOL
0.5
Rheology Modifier
Wheat Protein
0.5
Conditioner
Methyl Paraben
0.5
Preservative
Ethanol
34.5
Solvent
Salient Features Of
H.E.C
Provides a smooth and silky feel to product
It has high ionic tolerance
It gives an extremely high clarity in gels
It offers good compatibility with surfactants
Wide range of viscosities can be achived with
HEC
Physical Properties
Toothpaste Formulation
With HEC
Ingredienta
% weight
Humectant(Glycerine)
10-30
Abrasive(CaCO3)
15-40
Sweetner(Saccharin)
0.1-0.2
Flavour
1-1.5
1-2
qs