Pembuat wayang Mulyono lokakarya seni Gunungan telah memperluas penguasaan dalam

seni Jawa gaya dengan menciptakan gunungan, atau simbol gunung terlihat di acara wayang,
batik dengan gaya ukiran dari Pekalongan, Jawa Tengah.
"Saya menyebutnya ciptaan ini gunungan hanya karena sebenarnya gunungan seperti yang
Anda sering lihat di Jawa menunjukkan boneka, tapi dengan beberapa modifikasi dalam
motif ukiran dan warna," kata Mulyono.
Gunungan potongan menarik, terutama bagi mereka yang gemar boneka Jawa. Gunungan
cocok untuk hiasan dinding serta meja riasan.
Mulyono mengatakan ide memodifikasi gunungan datang sekitar 10 bulan yang lalu ketika ia
bertemu salah satu master batik Pekalongan ini, Dudung Alie Syahbana.
"Awalnya, Dudung dan aku bekerja sama untuk menciptakan motif batik untuk kain. Tapi
kemudian kami memiliki ide untuk menerapkan motif untuk gunungan, "kata Mulyono, yang
berasal dari Purbalingga, Jawa Tengah.
"Jadi, Dudung dan aku mulai merancang motif untuk setiap gunungan. Setiap desain dibuat
untuk gunungan tunggal, "tambahnya. "Saya dapat mengatakan bahwa semua potonganpotongan seni adalah produk dari kolaborasi antara Purbalingga dan Pekalongan seniman."
Untuk batch pertama dari gunungan kreasi modifikasi, Mulyono, yang mengambil bagian
dalam baru-baru ini 16 Jakarta International Handicraft Trade Fair atau
Inacraft, memilih motif parang untuk ukiran utama karena melambangkan kepemimpinan
yang kuat dari raja-raja Jawa.
Pada pameran tersebut, ia ditampilkan tiga gunungan besar berwarna - masing-masing
berukuran 3 meter - serta beberapa yang lebih kecil, yang 70 sentimeter.
"Saya menaruh beberapa cerita wayang dalam yang besar. Kedua, misalnya, menggambarkan
perjalanan spiritual oleh Brotoseno. Sementara itu, satu lagi menggambarkan Ramayana
populer, "katanya.
Untuk yang lebih kecil, kata Mulyono, mereka umumnya dipelihara warna alami mereka.
"Semua karya-karya gunungan yang terbuat dari kulit kerbau. Saya menambahkan warna
dengan yang besar, untuk menangkap perhatian pengunjung dan tetap alami untuk gunungan
kecil untuk mempertahankan nuansa otentik sedikit. "
Mulyono mengatakan bahwa ia menggunakan metode yang sama untuk menghasilkan
gunungan dimodifikasi seperti yang biasa dilakukannya untuk yang klasik.
"Teknik ukiran dasar adalah semua sama. Apa yang membuatnya berbeda adalah motif batik
yang brilian, yang dirancang oleh Dudung. "
Pembuat boneka mengatakan gunungan harga antara Rp 5 juta (US $ 433,59) dan Rp 75 juta.
Selain gunungan, Mulyono juga berlaku motif batik dengan papan kayu, mengukur sekitar
150 cm.

"Papan kayu yang terukir adalah barang dekorasi besar untuk sudut," katanya, menambahkan
bahwa dewan adalah harga dari Rp 7,5 juta.
Pengrajin lain, Herlambang Rianto Aura Batik, menerapkan teknik dasar batik pada kain
sebelum mengubahnya menjadi hiasan pintu yang indah.
"Apa yang saya miliki di sini pada dasarnya adalah sebuah tirai pintu sederhana, yang
diadopsi dari dekorasi rumah Jepang," kata Herlambang, yang telah dirancang, diproduksi
dan dijual barang-barang sejak tahun 2006.
"Saya menerapkan semua langkah dari proses pembuatan batik untuk jenis sepotong, namun
saya desain motif sendiri - pada dasarnya, mereka adalah potongan-potongan batik
kontemporer," kata Herlambang,
Setelah bertahun-tahun memperkenalkan pekerjaan, gayanya mulai mendapatkan perhatian
pembeli. Setiap set tirai pintu ukuran 80 cm lebar dan 150 cm. Mereka dijual dengan harga
Rp 450.000 per set.
"Saya menggambar sesuatu yang melintasi pikiran saya, yang saya pikir memiliki nilai yang
menarik, untuk motif tirai," kata pria, yang workshop yang berlokasi di Bandung dan
Pekalongan.
"Tahun ini, misalnya, aku berfokus pada gambar yang menyerupai profesi unik di Indonesia
seperti penjual sate tradisional. Beberapa tahun yang lalu, saya membuat jamu [jamu] wanita
citra untuk motif saya. Selain itu, saya juga mengekspos kegiatan budaya kita, seperti sabung
ayam. "
Dengan meningkatnya permintaan dari Malaysia dan Jepang, Herlambang mengatakan ia
juga harus terus menerapkan motif standar, seperti flora dan fauna.
"Pembeli Jepang menyukai gorden dengan motif pohon pisang, serta daun dan bunga dengan
coklat, merah dan biru. Sementara itu, Malaysia seperti motif floral tetapi tidak mereka
dengan fauna atau motif dengan gambar orang. "
Wayang puppet maker Mulyono of Gunungan art workshop has expanded his
mastery in the Javanese-style art by creating gunungan, or mountain symbols
seen in wayang shows, with batik-style carvings from Pekalongan, Central Java.

I call this creation gunungan simply because it is actually gunungan as you

commonly see in Javanese puppetry shows, but with some modifications in the
carved motifs and color, Mulyono said.

The gunungan are interesting pieces, especially for those who are fond of
Javanese puppetry. The gunungan are suitable for wall decoration as well as
tabletop finery.

Mulyono said the idea of modifying the gunungan came about 10 months ago
when he met one of Pekalongans batik masters, Dudung Alie Syahbana.

Initially, Dudung and I worked together to create batik motifs for fabric. But then
we had the idea to apply the motifs to gunungan, said Mulyono, who comes
from Purbalingga, Central Java.

So, Dudung and I started to design motifs for each gunungan. Each design is for
a single gunungan, he added. I can say that all of these pieces of art are the
product of collaboration between Purbalingga and Pekalongan artists.

For the first batch of the modified gunungan creations, Mulyono, who took part in
the recent 16th Jakarta International Handicraft Trade Fair or
Inacraft, chose the parang motif for the main carving as it symbolizes the strong
leadership of Javanese kings.

At the fair, he displayed three large colored gunungan each measuring 3

meters in height as well as several smaller ones, which were 70 centimeters
tall.

I put some puppetry tales in the big ones. Those two, for example, portray a
spiritual journey by Brotoseno. Meanwhile, another one depicts the popular
Ramayana, he said.

For the smaller ones, said Mulyono, they generally maintained their natural color.

All of these gunungan works are made of buffalo skin. I add colors to the big
ones, to catch visitors attention and keep it natural for the smaller gunungan to
maintain a slight authentic feel.

Mulyono said that he used the same method to produce the modified gunungan
as he usually did for classic ones.

The basic carving technique is all the same. What makes it different is the
brilliant batik motif, which is designed by Dudung.

The puppet maker said the gunungan are priced between Rp 5 million
(US$433.59) and Rp 75 million.

Besides gunungan, Mulyono also applies batik motifs to wooden boards,

measuring some 150 cm in height.

The engraved wooden boards are great decoration items for corners, he said,
adding that the boards are priced from Rp 7.5 million.

Another craftsman, Herlambang Rianto of Aura Batik, applies the basic technique
of batik to fabrics before turning them into beautiful door adornments.

What I have here is basically a simple door curtain, which is adopted from
Japanese home dcor, said Herlambang, who has designed, produced and sold
the items since 2006.

I apply the all the steps of the batik-making process for this type of piece,
however I design my own motifs basically, they are contemporary batik
pieces, said Herlambang,

After years of introducing the work, his style began to garner buyers attention.
Each door curtain set measures 80 cm in width and 150 cm in length. They are
sold at Rp 450,000 per set.

I draw anything that crosses my mind, which I think has an interesting value, for
the curtain motifs, said the man, whose workshops are located in Bandung and
Pekalongan.

This year, for example, Im focusing on images that resemble unique

professions in Indonesia like a traditional satay seller. Some years ago, I created
jamu [herbal medicine] lady imagery for my motifs. In addition, I also expose our
cultural activities, such as cockfighting.

With growing demand from Malaysia and Japan, Herlambang said he also had to
continue applying standard motifs, like flora and fauna.

Japanese buyers love curtains with banana tree motifs, as well as leaves and
flowers with brown, red and blue. Meanwhile, Malaysians like floral motifs but not
those with fauna or motifs with images of people.

Several women are singing out of tune, breaking the prevailing silence, while
their skillful hands draw with ink following the lines and motifs on silk fabrics.

The sight was common in Druju village, located some 60 kilometer south of
Malang, East Java, home of Batik Andis.

An appealing countryside landscape welcomes visitors to the village, surrounded

by a limestone mountain range stretching toward the southern coast of Java,
with lush green sugarcane and coffee plantations to feast their eyes on.

The small village is home to batik motifs derived from Drujus natural and
sociocultural background, hence, the name Druju batik popular among
consumers.

The showroom displaying batik clothes and fabrics tempts customers as they
enter the house-cum-gallery, managed by a married couple, Andik Subagiyo, 53,
and Atik, 48.

The place opened in 1996 when Atik and Andik adopted the Malang style to
inform their batik patterns.

The production house employs dozens of workers, mostly local housewives, who
are free during the day, as well as teenagers.

We initially employed several skilled batik makers from Lamongan, East Java, to
share techniques with us. But for the last five years weve been independently
creating our products in our own style, said Atik.

Batik Andis production almost entirely relies on manual skills although there are
some items that are printed.

The other unique feature of this industry distinguishing it from most batik makers
is the method of drawing batik patterns directly on ready-made clothes.

Sights of Druju: Various motifs of Batik Andis, inspired by nature in Druju village,
Malang. East Java.
Sights of Druju: Various motifs of Batik Andis, inspired by nature in Druju village,
Malang. East Java.

The production time ranges from a month to a year, depending on the intricacy
of motifs and the fabrics used, which puts some customers on the waiting list to
obtain certain types of Druju batik works.

We prioritize product quality rather than mass production profits. Our creativity
shouldnt be appreciated with buyers money or status, said Atik.

Druju batik is also characterized by its pitch-black color, darker than any other
batik. The producer comes out with new motifs monthly while the earlier ones
already marketed would not be remade to prevent duplication by other batik
makers.

Exhibitions usually become an arena of imitation of other novel patterns. But we

dont care as our artistic flair cant be pirated, Andik said.

Druju batik motifs feature a variety of designs, from working farmers, butterflies
to coastal elements.

Crafted by applying complicated techniques, these products are sold at prices

starting from Rp 400,000 (US$34.7).

Andis Druju batik industry has no other outlets, meaning buyers have to visit the
gallery to secure Druju batik, allowing them to observe the batik making process
and request for their preferred designs.

Druju batik pieces have taken part in government sponsored exhibitions, with the
clothes shown abroad, from Italy, the US to South Korea.

Many are unaware that when they purchased batik abroad, theyve bought our
products, Atik says.

One of Italys oldest fashion schools, Koefia, has not only included batik fashion in its
curriculum, but has also paraded its stylish designs on the catwalk.
Two young designers and the schools graduates, Giuseppe Perri and Giorgia Donia, claimed
they are captivated by the beauty of batik and its motifs as well as amazed by the rich
philosophical meaning behind the fabrics intricate patterns.
Perri believes batik has a big chance of setting world fashion trends, with its rich patterns as
its main strength to draw global interest.
The more distinctive the motifs being offered, the easier for batik to find its foreign market,
he said.
He said designers who exploit batik for their fashion creations should not be at pains to make
batik appeal to the global community.
They just have to preserve the identity of batik as a genuine part of Indonesian culture and
the world will be very fond of batik, Perri says.

batik with an Italian

touch
up close: Designers from the International Fashion Academy Koefia watch the batik-making
process in Surakarta, Central Java.
The International Fashion Academy Koefia, which is located in Rome, has included batik in
its curriculum as part of a cooperation program with the Indonesian Embassy in Italy to
enrich its batik design to breach the international market.
Since the cooperation began three years ago, the fashion school students have been assigned
to create designs using batik fabrics brought from Indonesia, especially from Surakarta and
Pekalongan in Central Java.
Some 200 designs have been created each given the renowned Italian fashion touch.
Following the selection process, 40 of them have been made into fashion pieces that have
been displayed at different fashion shows in Italy.
Yenny Lioniwati, a representative of the Indonesian Embassy in Italy, said the cooperation
would hopefully further promote batik to the world.
She said the school had an impressive learning method where the students were taught to
apply haute couture techniques and dressmaking skills, which in a way, resembled the
meticulous batik-making process.
The weakness of batik designers, as noticed by their Italian counterparts, lies in the lack
attention to detail, she added. We need to learn from the European fashion designers, she
says.
Perris batik wear designs have even won a fashion design contest.
For his pieces, he transformed batik cloths with motifs of Punakawan, the four comical
characters in Javanese shadow puppet play, into stylish pieces.

Italian design: Designer Giuseppe Perri shows off his award-winning batik designs.
Perri said that in the beginning, he saw batik as just another fabric. But after learning about
the batik-making process and the rich philosophical meaning behind its motifs, he could not
hide his admiration.
After delving deeper into batik, I learnt the meaning behind every motif, he says.
It was in the hope of further understanding batik that the two designers recently came to
Indonesia to observe the batik-making process up close.
In my opinion, batik is not just any textile. It has a deep philosophy inherent in its motifs.
By grasping the meaning behind a pattern, I hope I can make designs as profound with its
motif, said Donia when visiting batik production centers in Surakarta and Pekalongan.
Unless a designer takes into account the profound philosophy behind batik when creating a
design, she said the created piece would be no different from regular clothing.

In a move to make batik popular among young people, she said batik motifs should be
applied to popular materials like glossy leather to give a modern touch.
In Surakarta, the designers visited Laweyan batik village where they watched how to produce
handmade batik and printed batik.
They also tried applying wax from canting onto cotton cloth.
After working on some motifs, Perri said he had visualized his own batik motifs. Its
traditional Javanese patterns with Italian-style strokes, he says

Salah satu sekolah mode tertua di Italia, Koefia, tidak hanya termasuk busana batik dalam
kurikulum, tetapi juga diarak desain stylish di atas catwalk.
Dua desainer muda dan lulusan sekolah, Giuseppe Perri dan Giorgia Donia, mengklaim
mereka terpikat oleh keindahan batik dan motif serta kagum dengan kaya makna filosofis di
balik pola-pola rumit kain.
Perri percaya batik memiliki peluang besar pengaturan tren mode dunia, dengan pola yang
kaya sebagai kekuatan utamanya untuk menarik minat global.
"Semakin khas motif yang ditawarkan, lebih mudah bagi batik untuk menemukan pasar luar
negeri," katanya.
Dia mengatakan desainer yang memanfaatkan batik untuk kreasi fashion mereka tidak boleh
berhati-hati untuk membuat daya tarik batik kepada masyarakat global.
"Mereka hanya perlu melestarikan identitas batik sebagai bagian asli dari budaya Indonesia
dan dunia akan sangat menyukai batik," kata Perri.
Dari dekat: Desainer dari International Fashion Academy Koefia menyaksikan proses
pembuatan batik di Surakarta, Jawa Tengah.
Dari dekat: Desainer dari International Fashion Academy Koefia menyaksikan proses
pembuatan batik di Surakarta, Jawa Tengah.
The International Fashion Academy Koefia, yang terletak di Roma, sudah termasuk batik
dalam kurikulum sebagai bagian dari program kerjasama dengan Kedutaan Besar Republik
Indonesia di Italia untuk memperkaya desain batik untuk melanggar pasar internasional.
Sejak kerjasama dimulai tiga tahun yang lalu, para siswa sekolah mode telah ditugaskan
untuk membuat desain menggunakan kain batik yang dibawa dari Indonesia, terutama dari
Surakarta dan Pekalongan di Jawa Tengah.
Sekitar 200 desain telah dibuat - masing-masing diberikan terkenal Italia sentuhan fashion.
Setelah proses seleksi, 40 dari mereka telah dibuat menjadi potongan-potongan busana yang

telah ditampilkan di mode yang berbeda menunjukkan di Italia.

Yenny Lioniwati, perwakilan dari Kedutaan Besar Republik Indonesia di Italia, mengatakan
kerja sama diharapkan akan semakin mempromosikan batik kepada dunia.
Dia mengatakan sekolah memiliki metode pembelajaran yang mengesankan di mana siswa
diajarkan untuk menerapkan teknik haute couture dan keterampilan Tata Busana, yang
dengan cara, mirip proses pembuatan batik teliti.
Kelemahan desainer batik, seperti diperhatikan oleh rekan-rekan mereka Italia, terletak pada
kurangnya perhatian terhadap detail, ia menambahkan. "Kita perlu belajar dari perancang
busana Eropa," katanya.
Memakai desain batik Perri bahkan telah memenangkan kontes desain fashion.
Untuk karya ini, ia berubah kain batik dengan motif dari Punakawan, empat karakter lucu
dalam bahasa Jawa bermain wayang, menjadi potongan-potongan bergaya.
Desain Italia: Designer Giuseppe Perri memamerkan desain batik pemenang penghargaan itu.
Desain Italia: Designer Giuseppe Perri memamerkan desain batik pemenang penghargaan itu.
Perri mengatakan bahwa pada awalnya, ia melihat batik sebagai kain hanya lain. Tapi setelah
belajar tentang proses pembuatan batik dan kaya makna filosofis di balik motif yang, ia tidak
bisa menyembunyikan kekagumannya.
"Setelah menggali lebih dalam batik, saya belajar makna di balik setiap motif," katanya.
Itu dengan harapan lebih lanjut batik pemahaman bahwa dua desainer baru-baru ini datang ke
Indonesia untuk mengamati dari dekat proses pembuatan batik.
"Menurut saya, batik bukan sembarang tekstil. Ini memiliki filosofi yang mendalam melekat
dalam motif nya. Dengan menggenggam makna di balik pola, saya harap saya bisa membuat
desain yang mendalam dengan motif, "kata Donia ketika mengunjungi sentra produksi batik
di Surakarta dan Pekalongan.
Kecuali seorang desainer memperhitungkan filosofi yang mendalam di balik batik saat
membuat desain, katanya potongan dibuat akan tidak berbeda dari pakaian biasa.
Dalam sebuah langkah untuk membuat batik populer di kalangan anak muda, katanya motif
batik harus diterapkan untuk bahan populer seperti kulit mengkilap untuk memberikan
sentuhan modern.
Di Surakarta, para desainer mengunjungi desa batik Laweyan di mana mereka menyaksikan
bagaimana menghasilkan batik tulis dan batik cap.
Mereka juga mencoba menerapkan lilin dari canting ke kain katun.

Setelah bekerja pada beberapa motif, Perri mengatakan ia telah divisualisasikan motif batik
sendiri. "Ini pola tradisional Jawa dengan bergaya Italia stroke," katanya