BAHAN KULIAH

M.K. ITK 521: OSEANOGRAFI FISIK

PJMK : Prof.Dr. Mulia Purba (10 kuliah)
Anggota : Dr. I Wayan Nurjaya (5 kuliah)
Praktikum : Tri Hartanto, Spi, MS
Mata Kuliah ITK 521: mata kuliah pada Mayor IKL,
Program Pascasarjana IPB
Bagian Oseanografi
Departemen Ilmu dan Teknologi Kelautan
Fakultas Perikanan dan Ilmu Kelautan
purba@2014
1 (36)
Oceanography: Graphos: the description of, Ocean (lautan)

Oceanology: Logos: the logic of or the science of, Ocean

Oceanography adalah ilmu yang mempelajari laut dalam segala
aspek dengan penekanan laut sebagai suatu lingkungan.

Aspek: fisika, kimia, biologi dan geologi

Ilmu dasar: diaplikasikan untuk menelaah sifat komponen lautan

Fisika: Oseanografi Fisik (Physical Oceanography),

Biologi: Oseanografi Biologis (Bilogical Oceanography)

Kimia: Oseanografi Kimiawi (Chemical Oceanography )

Geologi: Oseanografi Geologi (Geological Oceanography)
(Kuliah # 1)
purba@2014
2 (36)
Marine Sciences: Marine Physic, Marine Biology,
Marine Chemistry dan Marine Geology
Oceanography: pendekatan proses yakni pergerakan massa air pada
suatu habitat
Marine Sciences: pendekatan ilmu (sain) untuk menelaah karakter
aspek tsb di laut
Geofisika (geophysic): Mempelajari fisika dari bumi
Dinamika Fluida Geofisik (Geophysical Fluid Dynamics):
mempelajari dinamika gerak fluida pada skala yang dipengaruhi
rotasi putaran bumi
Hidrografi (Hydrography):
mempelajari penyajian peta-peta nautika: peta kedalaman, arus,
medan densitas internal lautan, pasang surut (pasut) dan proses fisik
yang berkaitan dengannya
purba@2014
3 (36)
Mengapa belajar fisika lautan:

Sumber makanan: proses penyuburan laut

Digunakan manusia: bangunan, pelayaran, rekreasi, perikanan dll.

Lautan mempengaruhi cuaca dan iklim global

Tujuan:
Mengetahui konsep dasar (teori) yg menjadi fondasi osenografi fisik.

Lebih spesifik:
(1) proses fisik yang mempengaruhi lautan terbuka dan pesisir,
(2) sifat-sifat fisik-kimia massa air,
(3) pergerakan dan gaya-gaya penyebabnya (arus, gelombang dan pasang
surut),
(4) keseimbangan bahang dan interaksi dengan atmosfir
purba@2014
4 (36)
Ada 3 pilar dalam belajar dinamika lautan:

saling menyokong, tdk berdiri sendiri

(1) Teori: proses di laut berolak dan non-linier: teorinya kompleks:
penyederhanaan

(2) Observasi: jarang (sparse): waktu dan ruang

(3) Pemodelan numerik:
teori realistik,
interpolasi observasi,
prakiraan (forecast) perubahan cuaca,
sirkulasi,
sebaran material.
pedekatan: lautan yang bersifat kontinu
purba@2014
5 (36)
purba@2014
6 (36)
Garis besar sejarah perkembangan pengetahuan lautan (oseanografi)

1. Pelayaran perdagangan:
Polynesia di Pasifik sejak 4000 BC
Pytheas di Atlantik 325 BC,
Arab di S. India pada abad pertengahan.

Lebih mementingkan kejadian prasejarah.

2. Eropah modern:
voyage of discovery, misalnya,
Bartholomew Dias (14871488),
Christopher Columbus (14921494),
Vasco da Gama 14971499),
Ferdinand Magellan (15191522)
Rute perdagangan global: Spanyol ke Filippina pada abad 16
purba@2014
7 (36)
Eksplorasi lautan yang diikuti eksplorasi ilmiah oleh Eropah:

James Cook (17281779): Endeavour, Resolution, dan Adventure
Charles Darwin (18091882): Beagle
Sir James Clark Ross dan Sir John Ross: mensurvei the Arctic dan
Antarctic dengan Victory, Isabella, dan Erebus,
Edward Forbes (18151854): mempelajari kehidupan laut dalam.

Abad 20: survei dengan kapal lambat dan cakupan terbatas
menggunakan satelit
Studi sinoptik: cakupan luas dan sekaligus.

Juga untuk pertama kali dengan data satelit:
studi interaksi sistem biologi, kimia dan fisik mempengaruhi
lingkungan bumi.
purba@2014
8 (36)
Eras of Oceanographic Exploration
1. Era of Surface Oceanography: Earliest times to 1873.
Systematic collection of mariners observations of winds, currents,
waves, temperature, and other phenomena observable from the deck of
sailing ships.
Notable examples: Halleys charts of the trade winds,
Franklins map of the Gulf Stream, and
Matthew Fontaine Maurys Physical Geography for the Sea.
2. Era of Deep-Sea Exploration: 18731914.
Wide ranging oceanographic expeditions to survey surface and
subsurface conditions near colonial claims.
The major examples: the Challenger Expedition (Figure 2.1),
the Gazelle and Fram Expeditions.
3. Era of National Systematic and National Surveys: 19251940.
Detailed surveys of colonial areas.
Examples: Meteor surveys of Atlantic, Discovery Expeditions.
purba@2014
9 (36)
purba@2014
10 (36)
4. Era of New Methods: 19471956.
Long surveys using new instruments.
Examples: seismic surveys of the Atlantic by Vema
leading to Heezens physiographic diagram of the sea floor.

5. Era of International Cooperation: 19571978.
Multinational surveys of oceans and studies of oceanic processes.
Examples: the Atlantic Polar Front Program,
the norpac cruises,
the International Geophysical Year cruises, and
the International Decade of Ocean Exploration.

Multiship studies of oceanic processes

6. Era of Satellites: 19781995.
Global surveys of oceanic processes from space.
Examples: Seasat, NOAA 610, NIMBUS7,
Geosat, Topex/Poseidon, and ERS1 & 2.
purba@2014
11 (36)

7. Era of Earth System Science: 1995
Global studies of the interaction of biological, chemical, and
physical processes in the ocean and atmosphere and on land
using in situ and space data in numerical models.

Examples: the World Ocean Circulation Experiment
(WOCE) (Figure 2.5)
Topex/ Poseidon (Figure 2.6), SeaWiFS and
Joint Global Ocean Flux Study (JGOFS).

purba@2014
12 (36)
purba@2014
13 (36)
purba@2014
14 (36)
Oseanografi sebagai Sains yang Sistematik

Mulai awal abad 19 bersama saudaranya meteorologi

Ada 3 faktor: mendorong kearah perkembangan yang cepat :
1 Pengukuran kedalaman untuk keperluan engineering:
- sejalan dengan penemuan elektromagnetik telegraphy
- meletakan kabel listrik pada dasar lautan.
2. Jalur pelayaran dan peta : angin, gelombang, badai, arus, kejadian
awan, distribusi es pelayaran lebih cepat dan aman.
3. Alasan (1) dan (2) kebutuhan teknis dan ekonomi.

Faktor ketiga dari dunia akademi Science.

Pada awalnya Biologist beranggapan tidak ada kehidupan pada
lapisan dalam lautan.
15 (36)
Edward Forbes (Pioner dalam biology)
(1843)

Theory Abyssal tidak ada kehidupan pada kedalaman
absolute darkness >500 meter.

Ternyata dari pengambilan kabel pada kedalaman 3000 m:
ada kehidupan menempel pada kabel

Banyak penelitian untuk penemuan baru ini.
Misalnya: deepsea expedition Challanger dan Enterprise.
purba@2014
16 (36)
Capaian Monumental (Milestones) dalam pengetahuan lautan

1685 Edmond Halley:
Meneliti: sistem angin di lautan dan arus, publikasi:
An Historical Account of the Trade Winds, and Monsoons,
observable in the Seas between and near the Tropics, with an attempt to
assign the Physical cause of the said Winds
Philosophical Transactions, 16: 153-168.
1735 George Hadley:
Menerbitkan teori Angin Passat (the trade winds) berdasarkan
Conservation of angular momentum:
Concerning the Cause of the General Trade-Winds
Philosophical Transactions, 39: 58-62.
1751 Henri Ellis:
Peneliti awal: deep soundings of temperature in the tropics:
Ditemukan massa air dingin dibawah lapisan air hangat
Indikasi: massa air dalam berasal dari daerah kutub.
purba@2014
17 (36)
1769 Benjamin Franklin (as postmaster):
Made the first map of the Gulf Stream using information about ships
sailing between New England and England collected by his cousin
Timothy Folger (figure 2.7).

1775 Laplace: published his theory of tides.

1800 Count Rumford:
Proposed a meridional circulation of the ocean with water sinking
near the poles and rising near the Equator.

1847 Matthew Fontain Maury:
Published his first chart of winds and currents based on ships logs.
Established the practice of international exchange of environmental
data, trading logbooks for maps and charts derived from the data
purba@2014
18 (36)
purba@2014
19 (36)
18721876 Challenger Expedition:
Marks the beginning of the systematic study of the biology, chemistry,
and physics of the oceans of the world.

1885 Pillsbury:
Made direct measurements of the Florida Current using current meters
deployed from a ship moored in the stream.

19101913 Vilhelm Bjerknes:
Published Dynamic Meteorology and Hydrography which laid the
foundation of geophysical fluid dynamics.
Developed the idea: fronts, the dynamic meter, geostrophic flow, air-sea
interaction, and cyclones.

1912 Founding of the Marine Biological Laboratory of the University of
California.
It later became the Scripps Institution of Oceanography.
purba@2014
20 (36)
1930 Founding of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.

1942 Publication: The Oceans by Sverdrup, Johnson, and Fleming,
the first comprehensive survey of oceanographic knowledge.

Post WW 2 Founding of oceanography departments at state
universities: Oregon State, Texas A&M University, University of
Miami, and University of Rhode Island, and
the founding of national ocean laboratories such as the various
Institutes of Oceanographic Science.

19471950 Sverdrup, Stommel, and Munk:
Publish their theories of the wind driven circulation of the ocean.
Together the three papers lay the foundation for our understanding
of the oceans circulation

1949 Start of California Cooperative Fisheries Investigation of the
California Current
purba@2014
21 (36)
1952 Cromwell and Montgomery:
Rediscover the Equatorial Undercurrent in thePacific

1955 Bruce Hamon and Neil Brown:
Develop the CTD for measuring conductivity and temperature as a
function of depth in the ocean
1958 Stommel publishes his theory for the deep circulation of the ocean.
196x Sippican Corporation invents the Expendable Bathy Thermograph
(XBT) now perhaps the most widely used oceanographic instrument.
1969 Kirk Bryan and Michael Cox:
Develop the first numerical model of the oceanic circulation
1978 NASA:
Launches the first oceanographic satellite: Seasat.
The program developed techniques used by generations of remotes
sensing satellites.
purba@2014
22 (36)
19791981 Terry Joyce, Rob Pinkel, Lloyd Regier, F. Rowe and J. W.
Young:
Develop techniques leading to the acoustic-doppler current profiler
(ADCP) for measuring ocean-surface currents from moving ships, an
instrument widely used in oceanography.
1992 Russ Davis and Doug Webb:
Invent the autonomous drifter that continuously measures currents at
depths to 2 km.
1992 NASA and CNES:
Develop and launch Topex/Poseidon, a satellite that maps ocean
surface currents, waves, and tides every ten days.
1997 Wally Broecker:
Proposes that changes in the deep circulation of the oceans modulate
the ice ages, and that the deep circulation in the Atlantic could
collapse, plunging the northern hemisphere into a new ice age.
purba@2014
23 (36)
Gambaran Lautan (Statistik)

Earth is a prolate ellipsoid, an ellipse of rotation, with an equatorial
radius of Re = 6, 378.1349 km (West, 1982) which is slightly greater than
the polar radius of Rp = 6, 356.7497 km.
The small equatorial bulge is due to Earths rotation.
Bumi: water globe
Kutub: daratan tertutup es, sehingga susah mencari batas daratan dan
lautan, tetapi pembagian darat : laut lebih tetap yakni:

1 : 2,43 (29,2 % : 70,8 %).

Distribusi tanah dan air:
asimateri (Fig 2.2) karena daratan terkonsentrasi di BBU

purba@2014
24 (36)
70
45
35
65
Daratan > Lautan
Daratan ~ 2,5 %
Antarctic
0 65
o
S: daratan <25 %
dari
Lautan pada setiap 5
o
54
o
S: Bouvet Is: salju abadi
dan es
Suhu udr: - 4
o
s/d +2,5
o
C
SPL: +1
o
s/d -1
o
C
54
o
U: Helgoland Is (German)
SPL: 3 18
o
C
purba@2014
25 (36)
Akibat penyebaran daratan (benua) diperoleh sebaran lautan
(Tabel 2.1)

Sebagian lautan-lautan ini tidak jelas batasnya, tapi dipisahkan atau
diberi nama tersendiri karena sifat-sifat nya yang unik, walaupun
sifat-sifat tersebut saling mempengaruhi : terutama antarctic.

Karena bentuk yang tidak teruatur dari daratan perlu subdivisi

Grup besar adjacent seas : - Mediterranian: Large dan Small
- Marginal sea

Faktor utama morfologi bumi :
Dominasi peran laut makin nyata bukan hanya luas muka laut, tapi
juga volume.
Misalnya, volume darat diatas muka laut <1/10 vol. air laut.
purba@2014
26 (36)
purba@2014
27 (36)
Kalau seluruh daratan dan dasar perairan diratakan:
2400 m (mean sphere) depth.

Kedalaman laut rata-rata 3800 m: merupakan bagian yang tipis dari bumi

Bila dibandingkan dengan radius bumi adalah 1:1700
Kedalam daratan rata-rata: 840 m

Latitude is the angle between the local vertical and the equatorial plane.
A meridian is the intersection at Earths surface of a plane perpendicular to
the equatorial plane and passing through Earths axis of rotation.

Longitude is the angle between the standard meridian and any other
meridian, where the standard meridian is that which passes through a point
at the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, England.
Thus longitude is measured east or west of Greenwich.

purba@2014
28 (36)
A degree of latitude is not the same length as a degree of longitude except
at the equator.
Latitude is measured along great circles with radius R, where R is the mean
radius of Earth.

Longitude is measured along circles with radius Rcos where is latitude
Thus 1
o
latitude = 111 km; and 1
o
longitude = 111 cos km.
For careful work, remember that Earth is not a sphere, and
latitude varies slightly with distance from the equator.

Nautical miles and meters are connected historically to the size of Earth.
Gabriel Mouton, who was vicar of St. Pauls Church in Lyons, France,
proposed in 1670 a decimal system of measurement based on the length of
an arc that is one minute of a great circle of Earth. This eventually became
the nautical mile.
A nautical mile should be 2 Re/(360 60) = 1.855 km, which is very
close to the official definition of the international nautical mile:
1 nm = 1.852 km.
purba@2014
29 (36)
The Atlantic Ocean

Extends northward from Antarctica and
includes all of the Arctic Sea, the European Mediterranean, and the
American Mediterranean more commonly known as the Caribbean sea
(Fig. 3 .1).

The boundary between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans is the meridian of
Cape Agulhas (20
o
E).

The boundary between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans is the line
forming the shortest distance from Cape Horn to the South Shetland
Islands.
In the north, the Arctic Sea is part of the Atlantic Ocean, and the Bering
Strait is the boundary between the Atlantic and Pacific.

purba@2014
30 (36)
purba@2014
31 (36)
The Pacific Ocean

Extends northward from Antarctica to the Bering Strait
(Figure 3.2).

The boundary between the Pacific and Indian Oceans:

Follows the line from the Malay Peninsula through Sumatra, Java,
Timor, Australia at Cape Londonderry, and Tasmania.

From Tasmania to Antarctica it is the meridian of South East Cape
on Tasmania 147
o
E.

purba@2014
32 (36)
purba@2014
33 (36)
The Indian Ocean:
Extends from Antarctica to the continent of Asia including
the Red Sea and Persian Gulf (Figure 3.3).

Some authors use the name Southern Ocean to describe the ocean
surrounding Antarctica.

Mediterranean Seas are mostly surrounded by land.
By this definition, the Arctic and Caribbean Seas are both
Mediterranean Seas, the Arctic Mediterranean and the Caribbean
Mediterranean.

Marginal Seas are defined by only an indentation in the coast.
The Arabian Sea and South China Sea are marginal seas.


purba@2014
34 (36)
purba@2014
35 (36)
36 (36)