Ilmu Tekstil

KEMENTERIAN RISET, TEKNOLOGI DAN PENDIDIKAN TINGGI
UNIVERSITAS NEGERI SEMARANG (UNNES)

Kantor: Rektorat UNNES Kampus Sekaran, Gunungpati, Semarang 50229
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Website: www.unnes.ac.id - E-mail: rektor@mail.unnes.ac.id
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No. Dokumen No. Revisi Hal Tanggal Terbit
FM-01-AKD-07 02 1dari 20 17 Februari 2017
Sistematika penulisan penyusunan bahan ajar matakuliah
1. Bagian Awal
a. Halaman Sampul
b. Halaman pengesahan
c. Prakata
d. Deskripsi Matakuliah (mencakup CP Lulusan dan CP Matakuliah)
e. Daftar Isi
2. Bagian Isi
Bagian ini berisi pokok-pokok bahasan matakuliah yang disajikan dalam
bentuk Bab-Bab yang merujuk pada Rencana Pembelajaran Matakuliah
(RPS) yang telah disusun.
a. Judul Bab/Topik Pembelajaran
b. Sub Capaian Pembelajaran Mata kuliah
c. Isi/Materi Topik Pembelajaran
d. Rangkuman
e. Lembar Pertanyaan/Diskusi
3. Bagian Akhir
a. Daftar Pustaka (yang digunakan dalam menulis bahan ajar/diktat)
sesuai dengan RPS.
Bagian awal, tengah/isi dan akhir ditulis dengan font Arial 11 dan spasi 1,5.
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CONTOH
BAHAN AJAR/DIKTAT(font: arial 16)
NAMA MATAKULIAH
KODE MATAKULIAH
JUMLAH SKS
(font: arial 14)
NAMA PRODI
NAMA FAKULTAS
UNIVERSITAS NEGERI SEMARANG
TAHUN
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VERIFIKASI BAHAN AJAR
Pada hari ini ......... tanggal ..... bulan ................... tahun ......... Bahan Ajar Mata
Kuliah ................. Program Studi ......................................................................
Fakultas ...................... telah diverifikasi oleh Ketua Jurusan/ Ketua Program
Studi ................................................................
Semarang, .................................
Ketua Jurusan/ Ketua Prodi ...... Tim Penulis
..................................... ……………………………
NIP NIP.
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PRAKATA
Bagian ini berisi pengantar dan gambaran singkat isi handout matakuliah
ini.
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DESKRIPSI MATAKULIAH
Bagian ini berisi tentang deskripsi capaian pembelajaran lulusan dan
capaian pembelajaran matakuliah yang telah dirumuskan dalam Rencana
Pembeljaran Semester (RPS)
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DAFTAR ISI
Prakata i
Daftar Isi ii
Bab I Konsep Dasar Psikologi Kognitif 1
Deskripsi Singkat 1
Capaian pembelajaran pertemuan 1
A. Definisi Psikologi Kognitif 1
B. Ruang Lingkup Psikologi Kognitif 4
C. Sejarah Singkat Psikologi Kognitif 4
D. Hubungan Psikologi Kognitif dengan Ilmu Kognitif 8
E. Metode Penelitian 11
F. Rangkuman
Pertanyaan 14
Bab II Neuroscience Kognitif 15
Deskripsi Singkat 15
Capaian pembelajaran pertemuan 15
A. Konsep Neuroscience Kognitif 15
B. Sejarah Perkembangan Neuroscience Kognitif 16
1. Frenologi 16
2. Teori Medan Agregat 17
3. Teori Lokalisasi Fungsi 17
4. Kemunculan Neuropsikologi 18
C. Psikologi Kognitif dan Neurosains Kognitif 21
D. Rangkuman
Pertanyaan 23
Daftar Pustaka 94
BAB I
KLASIFIKASI DAN KARAKTERISTIK SERAT TEKSTIL
FORMULIR MUTU
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A. Deskripsi singkat
Food, clothing and shelter are the three basic needs of human beings.
The fibres, which form the subject matter of this lesson, are the basis of clothing
and therefore their importance cannot be overemphasized. Textile fibres are hair-
like substances with a high degree of fineness, outstanding flexibility, reasonable
strength, a minimum level of length and cohesiveness (ability to hold to one
another, when placed side by side). They may be short with a length at least 500
times (but commonly 1000 to 3000 times) their diameter or thickness or may be
very long with the length to diameter ratio being almost infinity. The short fibres
are called staple fibres while those with very long length are called filaments.
However, this distinction is generally not made and both short fibres and
continuous filaments are called fibres. In this lesson the fibres will first be
classified according to their origin. This will be followed by a description of the
growth of natural fibres and manufacture of manmade fibres. Some of the
important characteristics will also be briefly considered.
The word textile is derived from the Latin term “texture” for woven fabrics.
Thus by textiles we understand those objects which have been prepared by
weaving. Textile has an important bearing on our daily lives and everyone needs
to know about textiles as we use them in some way or the other. To understand
about textiles the study of textiles will help to a great extent when we buy textile
materials this knowledge will prevent us from making mistakes and we will be
able to purchase good quality materials.
There is a growing demand for textiles and clothing by people of all walks
of life. Yarns are produced by twisting or spinning of the textile fibres and in turn
fabric is a structure produced by interlacing or interloping of the yarns. There are
certain terms which are used very often in the study of textiles that are to be
understood first. Most of the fabrics we use for various purposes are woven that
means they are constructed by interlacing sets of yarns that run along lengthwise
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and crosswise directions. Each yarn is made up of several fibres therefore it is

essential to know or to define the terms like fibre yarns and fabrics.
A “fibre “is defined as any product capable of being woven or otherwise
made into fabric. It is smallest visible unit of textile product. Afibre can be defined
as a “pliable” hair like strand that is very small in diameter in relation to its length”.
Fibres are the fundamental units or the building blocks used in the making of
textile yarns and fabrics. Fibres are the fundamental units used in making of
textile yarns and later on into fabric. Thus fibres are the essential components
and basic units and are an essential components for making yarns. These fibres
are of many types.
B. Capaian pembelajaran matakuliah

1. Mengklasifikasi serat alam sesuai penggunaannya dengan benar
2. Mengklasifikasi serat sintesis sesuai penggunaannya dengan benar
3. Mendiskripsikan pengertian bentuk dan sifat sifat serat sesuai dengan
jenis seratnya
4. Mengidentifikasi bentuk dan sifat serat sesuai dengan jenisnya.
C. Isi Materi perkuliahan

Classification of Fibres
Based on their origin, the fibres may be classified as belonging to one of
the following two categories: Natural and Man-made. Natural fibres can be
further classified according to their origin into the following three groups:
i) Vegetable Fibres: The fibres that are derived from plants are called
vegetable fibres. The basic material of all plant life is cellulose. Cellulose is
made up of elements like carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. These cellulose
fibres have certain common properties like low resilience, high density,
and good conductor of heat. They are highly absorbent and are resistant
to high temperature. Cotton flax, jute, ramie are some of the examples of
vegetable fibres. Most of these are cellulose fibres and include cotton,
linen, jute, flax, ramie, coir, sisal and hemp. Besides their use as textiles,
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cellulose fibres are also used in the manufacture of paper and other useful
products like ropes, cords, coir mats, industrial fabrics, etc.
ii) Animal Fibres: The fibres which are obtained from animals are called
animal fibres. Wool and silk are common examples of animal fibres. They
are made up of protein molecules. The basic elements in the protein
molecules are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. Animal fibres have
high resiliency but weak when wet because they are bad conductors of
heat.They are mostly protein fibres and include wool and silk.
iii) Mineral Fibres: They are the inorganic materials shaped in to fibres and
are mainly used in the fire proof fabrics. Asbestos is the example of
mineral fibre. Mineral fibres are fire proof, resistant to acids and are used
for industrial purposes. Asbestos is the only naturally occurring mineral
fibre that was used extensively for making industrial products but is now
being gradually phased out due to its suspected carcinogenic effect.
Fibres in the second category, as the name implies, are made by man and
are therefore sometimes called artificial fibres or manufactured fibres. Like
natural fibres they may also be divided into the following three categories:
i) Derived from natural feedstock: Most of the fibres in this category are
derived from cellulose which is obtained from bamboo, wood or cotton
linters. The most important fibre in this category is viscose rayon. For a
long time rayon was made by a complex route in which cellulose was first
converted to cellulose xanthate and then dissolved and made into a fibre
which was then regenerated into pure cellulose fibre called viscose rayon.
However, more recently solvents for cellulose have been found and the
cellulose fibres are made directly from a solution of cellulose —these are
available under the trade names Lyocell and Tencel. Small quantities of
chemically modified cellulose fibres are also made— they are cellulose
dilacerate and cellulose triacetate fibres.
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Rubber latex, which comes out from rubber trees, is another natural
feedstock from which rubber fibres are made for use by the Textile and
other industries.
ii) Derived from manufactured feedstock: The petrochemical industry is the
main source of fibres in this category with coal and natural gas also
contributing a bit. Low molecular weight chemicals are first produced and
these are converted into fibre forming polymers through polymerization.
Synthetic fibres like polyamides (Nylon 66, Nylon 6), polyesters, acrylics
and polypropylene are obtained through this route. Elastomeric fibres—
Spandex and Lycra are also similarly made.
iii) Miscellaneous fibres: Glass fibres obtained from silica and metallic
fibres like silver and gold are man-made fibres which are best put under
this category.
Natural Fibres
Cotton, wool and silk are the major natural fibres and will be briefly
described here. In north India cotton is sown in mid-May and 5 to 6
months later, the cotton boll, which contains the fibres growing on seeds,
bursts open to atmosphere (Fig. 1.1) and after the fibres have dried, they
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are harvested. India was perhaps the first country to grow cotton; there is
evidence that it was grown 5000 years ago. The quality of the fibre has
improved significantly in the past 50 years - from the short, coarse fibre
that was available then, today very fine, long fibres are grown. This has
been possible through extensive breeding programmes and production of
hybrids. In the year 2000, a total of 50 million tons of fibres were produced
in the world, out of which cotton stood at 20 million tons. The
corresponding figures for India were: total 4 million tons, cotton 2 million
tons. Thus in India 50% of the total fibre produced is cotton.
Wool is the second important natural textile fibre. It is a hair growing on some
animals like sheep, goats, rabbits and camels with the sheep providing almost
90% of the total wool produced. This protein fibre grows at the rate of about 1.25
cm. per month on some sheep. After it has fully grown, the thick coat of wool is
sheared; this is followed by cleaning after which it is sent for use. In 1996 there
were more than 12 crore sheep in the world out of which India had 4.5 crore.
However, India’s share of world’s wool production was much lower than its share
of sheep. Silk is another protein fibre and is produced by the silkworm using a
process which is very close to the process of fibre production used for making
man-made fibres. The silkworm secretes a viscous fluid from its glands located
somewhere below its jaw and then wraps itself with the filament so extruded to
form a cocoon. The rate at which it produces a 1 to 2 kilometer long filament is
close to 50 cm. per hour. The cocoon is subjected to stoving (steaming) — the
silkworm dies inside the cocoon and the filament is collected.
Though natural fibres have been with us for a long time, their structures were
characterized only when techniques became available to study them. Extensive
studies on cotton led scientists to believe that the fibre had very large molecules.
The polymeric nature of fibres explained a number of their properties, e.g. the
ability of the fibre to extend significantly on application of load and its recovery on
removal of the load. As shown in Fig. 2, this was possible because long
molecules were not always in well-aligned position, the departure from the
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oriented state could thus account for finite extension. On release of load, they
were back to their original state which was their equilibrium state.
Fig. 2 Schematic representation of the extension of a molecule on application of load
D. Rangkuman
Bagian ini berisi ringkasan pokok-pokok materi.
E. Pertanyaan/Diskusi
Bagian ini berisi pertanyaan sebagai bahan diskusi atau latihan untuk
memperkaya pemahaman mahasiswa
Daftar Pustaka
Berisi referensi yang digunakan dalam menyusun bahan ajar,

menyesuaikan dengan yang sudah ditulis di Rencana Pembelajaran
Semester (RPS)
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BAB II
MAN-MADE FIBRES
A. Deskripsi singkat
These refer to those fibres that are not naturally present in nature and are
made artificially by man. Man-made fibres have high strength, strong when wet
low moisture absorption characteristics. Examples of man-made fibres are
viscose rayon, acetate rayon, nylon, polyester etc. Depending on raw material
chosen for making of the fibres they are classified as cellulosic fibres, protein
fibres and synthetic fibres.
B. Capaian pembelajaran matakuliah
C. Isi Materi perkuliahan
All the man-made fibres that followed - viscose rayon, (the first truly man-
made fibre was discovered more than 100 years ago), polyamides (before 1940),
and polyesters, acrylic and polypropylene (after 1940) - were based on polymers.
The two Polyamide fibres, which are produced in large quantities, are nylon 66
and nylon 6. They find considerable use as industrial fibres. Acrylic fibres are
widely used as artificial wool. Polyester filaments and fibres find extensive use as
dress materials.
Man - Made Fibres
All man-made fibres, as noted above, are polymeric in nature and are
made up of many (poly) units (mers) joined together by chemical bonding
forming long chains with high molecular weight. They are produced by
polymerizing low molecular weight chemical substances, usually at high
pressures and temperatures in the presence of catalysts. Once the polymer is
produced, it can be made into a filament by converting the polymer to a fluid and
then extruding the molten or dissolved polymer through narrow holes to give fine
filaments. The filaments so produced are generally stretched in a drawing
machine so that the molecules orient along the fibre length and strengthen the
fibre.
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As stated above, fibre manufacture requires the conversion of he polymer

to a melt or a solution after which the technique used by the spider or the silk
worm for centuries to make fibres may be used. This involves the squirting
(shooting out like a jet of fluid) the fluid under pressure through a spinneret (a
metal disk with a large number of very narrow holes). The threads which come
out are pulled rapidly and hardened in the form of continuous filaments.
Melt spinning is possible with those polymers which give a stable melt like
nylon 66, nylon 6, polyester, polypropylene, etc. Polymers which do not melt (like
cellulose) or those which do not give a stable melt (like polyacrylonitrile) are
converted into fibres by solution spinning. A typical melt spinning line is shown in
Fig.1.4. Polymer chips (or granules) are fed into the chip hopper and melted in
the extruder. The melt passes through a pre-filter and then through another filter
fitted in the spinning head before entering the spinneret. As they come out of the
narrow holes of the spinneret, they are solidified by cooling in the quench
chamber. After applying a spin finish/lubricant, they are wound on winders
provided at the bottom of the unit in the form of single filaments or more
commonly in the form multifilament yarns. They are then sent for further
processing which may involve drawing and twisting them or draw-texturing them.
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Melt Spinning Unit

Solution spinning may be classified as wet spinning when the solidification
is achieved by precipitation or coagulation of the polymeric filament or as dry
spinning when the solidification is achieved by boiling off the solvent in a drying
chamber. The basic method of solution spinning is similar to that used for melt
spinning. A wet spinning line is shown in Fig.1.5. The polymer is dissolved in the
solvent and filtered. Then a metered quantity of the solution is fed to a spinneret
dipped in the coagulation bath. As the fluid filaments are squirted out under
pressure, precipitation occurs. The solid filaments are then washed, drawn in two
stages, dried and wound. It may be noted that this is an integrated process in
which drawing is integrated with spinning, Viscose rayon and polyacrylonitrile
fibres are produced by wet spinning.
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Wet Spinning Set-up

A Dry spinning line is shown in Fig.1.6. The filtered polymer solution is fed
at the top of the setup and a metered quantity of the solution after passing
through a candle filter, enters the spinneret. The filament bundle falls into a
drying chamber where the solvent is made to evaporate and the solidified
filament are then wound. The drawing is done separately. Polyacrylonitrile,
cellulose acetate, Spandex and viscose rayon fibres can be produced both by dry
spinning and wet spinning.
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Natural Fibres Vs. Man-Made Fibres

Though there are major differences in fibre structure between natural and
man-made fibres, the long molecules are oriented in both cases and show the
presence of both order and disorder in the way molecules are organized (Fig.
1.5). The ordered molecules (which may form crystalline regions) contribute to
durability, strength, stability and recovery while the disordered regions (which
may form the amorphous phase) make a contribution to elongation, dye and
moisture absorption and toughness.
Fig. 1.7 Schematic sketch showing how molecules aggregate in a fibre

There are a number of differences too. The natural fibres show much
greater non-uniformity than man-made fibres. Thus testing of natural fibres
requires the testing of a very large number of samples before quoting an average
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value. Another important difference is the complex morphology of natural fibres

as opposed to the rather simpler morphology of man-made fibres. A third
important difference is that natural fibres absorb a greater amount of moisture
because they contain more water absorbing groups than the synthetic fibres. Of
course, viscose rayon, a man-made fibre, absorbs a significant amount of
moisture because of its cellulosic structure. This makes natural fibres and viscose
rayon more comfortable in the form of apparel wear, particularly in tropical and
hot climates.
General properties of textile fibres
1. Staple Fibres
Natural or man made or short length fibres which measures in inches or fraction
of inch example 3/4 inch to 18 inches except silk all other natural fibres are
staple fibres. Staple fibres are of limited length.
2. Filament
Long continuous fibres strands of indefinite length measured in yards or meters
fibres of continuous length long enough to be used in fabric as such Natural silk
filament is 360-1200 meters. Synthetic filaments can be made many kilometers
long. The only natural fibre available is silk.
3. Texture
It is the tactile sensation experienced when hand is passed over a surface.
Staple fibres and fabrics made from staple are lightly rough while filaments and
fabrics made from filaments fibres are smooth..
4. Resilience
It means that when fibre is compressed and later when the pressure is released.
It will tend to return to its original shape. Resistance to compression varies from
fibre to fibre.
This quality causes the fabric to be wrinkle resistant with the resistance varying
according to the degree of elasticity inherent in the fibre. Wool has outstanding
resiliency while it is poor in cotton.
5. Luster
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It is seen when light reflected from a surface. It is more subdued than shine. Silk
and synthetics have luster than cellulosic fibres. Infact synthetics have high luster
which is purposefully removed during spinning.
6. Static Electricity
It is generated by the friction of a fabric when it is rubbed against itself or other
objects. If the electrical charge that is not conducted away, It tends to build up on
the surface and when fabric comes in contact with a good conductor a shock or
transfer occurs. This transfer may sometimes produce sparks. This is more feel
during hot and humid conditions.
7. Crimp
Wool fibre is more or less wavy and has twists. This waviness is termed as crimp.
Finer the wool more will be the crimps in it. Marino wool will have 30 crimps per
inch while coarse wool has only one or two. This property of having crimps gives
elasticity to the fibre.
8. Elasticity
It is the ability of stretched material to return immediately to its original size.
Difference between cellulose and synthetic fibres
Among natural fibres available cotton, wool and silk are the most commonly used
fibres for making fabrics. Among artificial fibres rayon, nylon and polyester are
popular. The following are the differences between vegetable fibres and synthetic
fibres. Difference between vegetable and synthetic fibre
No Cellulosic fibres Synthetic fibres

1 Low resiliency: Fabric wrinkles High resiliency: Less wrinkles after
unless any finishing is given washing and wearing
2 High water absorbency: Low moisture absorption:
Comfortable for summer wears,
good for towel, hand kerchief and Easily washable and easy spot
diapers. removing.
3 Cellulosic fibres are good Synthetic fibres are also good

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conductors of heat. eg: Cotton is a conductors of heat they melt with hot
better conductor of heat but less or ironic touch with hot objects.
than that of rayon.
4 Identification: Cellulose fibres ignite Identification: Readily burns and
quickly, burns freely with smoke melts giving a distinct plastic burning
and have an after glow and after odour.
burning forms and a grey feathery
ash.
5 Cellulosic fibres have high affinity Synthetic fibres have low affinity for
for dyes. dyes.
6 Cellulosic fibres are resistant to Highly resistant to moths, mildew
moth but less susceptible to mildew and insects.
hence damp clothes should not be
stored.
7 Cellulosic fibres need ironing at low Synthetic fibres are adjusted with
temperatures. Eg: wool high heat settings. Hence it is good
for embossed designing and easy
for plant setting.
8 Susceptible to strong mineral and Synthetic fibres get readily damaged
organic acids stains that require due to acids. E.g.: Nylon
acid treatment should be rapidly
removed.
Polyester fibres burn readily and quickly with a chemical smell. It continues to
burn after removing from flame and gives a plastic like in crushable bleed.

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KEMENTERIAN RISET, TEKNOLOGI DAN PENDIDIKAN TINGGI

UNIVERSITAS NEGERI SEMARANG (UNNES)

Sistematika penulisan penyusunan bahan ajar matakuliah

BAHAN AJAR/DIKTAT(font: arial 16)

VERIFIKASI BAHAN AJAR

and crosswise directions. Each yarn is made up of several fibres therefore it is

B. Capaian pembelajaran matakuliah

C. Isi Materi perkuliahan

Fig. 2 Schematic representation of the extension of a molecule on application of load

Berisi referensi yang digunakan dalam menyusun bahan ajar,

As stated above, fibre manufacture requires the conversion of he polymer

Melt Spinning Unit

Wet Spinning Set-up

Natural Fibres Vs. Man-Made Fibres

Fig. 1.7 Schematic sketch showing how molecules aggregate in a fibre

value. Another important difference is the complex morphology of natural fibres

Difference between cellulose and synthetic fibres

No Cellulosic fibres Synthetic fibres

3 Cellulosic fibres are good Synthetic fibres are also good

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